Wednesday, March 16, 2016

Magie (1942)

Launched in Paris in 1942, but not introduced to the American market until 1950, Magie by Lancôme was more than a fragrance—it was the realization of a long-held dream by founder Armand Petitjean. Created in close collaboration with Lancôme’s in-house perfumer Georges Leplieux, Magie was the result of over a thousand carefully orchestrated trials. Its composition reflects years of refinement and an uncompromising dedication to quality, with fifty-eight rare and meticulously matured essences drawn from across the globe.

The name Magie (pronounced mah-ZHEE) is the French word for “magic.” In choosing this evocative name, Lancôme was tapping into a word that transcends language—instantly conjuring images of enchantment, mystery, allure, and transformation. The French language, known for its elegance and romance, lends the name a lyrical sophistication that would have appealed to the refined tastes of mid-century women. The idea of “magic” would have resonated deeply during this time, suggesting escapism, charm, and feminine mystique in a post-war world looking toward beauty and renewal.

The mid 1940s marked a cultural pivot point. Europe was recovering from the devastation of World War II, and in France—where Lancôme was born—there was a collective desire to reembrace art, fashion, and beauty. This period, stretching into the early 1950s, is often referred to as the postwar renaissance of luxury. It coincided with Christian Dior’s groundbreaking New Look, introduced in 1947, which redefined femininity with cinched waists, full skirts, and soft, romantic silhouettes. Perfume was a vital part of this return to elegance. Women were reclaiming their identities, and fragrance became an expression of hope, sophistication, and sensuality.


In this context, Magie arrived as a modern and luxurious fragrance—simultaneously aligned with contemporary trends and boldly individual. The emphasis on high-quality raw materials, aged for a dozen years or more, set it apart in a market where many perfumes were becoming more commercial and synthetically driven. Lancôme, under Petitjean’s vision, was positioning Magie not just as a scent, but as an olfactory experience—a symbol of timeless femininity and global artistry.

To interpret Magie in scent is to imagine the ephemeral: a perfume that sparkles, shimmers, and lingers like a spell. The fragrance opens with the effervescent brightness of aldehydes, a popular signature of 1940s and early 1950s perfumery, conveying a sense of clean modernity. Calabrian bergamot adds a citrusy bite, awakening the senses. From there, Magie unfolds into a sumptuous floral heart—centered around the finest jasmine from Grasse, paired with Italian violet, Florentine iris, Swiss hyacinth, and Bulgarian rose petals—each chosen not just for beauty but for provenance and pedigree.

The base notes reflect a tapestry of global luxury: Mysore sandalwood, Singaporean patchouli, Lebanese cedar, vetiver from Java and Réunion, softened by Madagascar vanilla, Tyrolean oakmoss, exotic resins, and incense from Ethiopia. Sensual fixatives such as Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, and rare ambergris lend depth, longevity, and an animalic undercurrent that was both daring and deeply seductive for its time.

While Magie aligned with the aldehydic floral compositions that were popular in the era—most famously represented by Chanel No. 5—it distinguished itself through the complexity of its construction and its reverence for natural ingredients. At a time when perfume houses were increasingly leaning into lab-created molecules, Lancôme’s use of aged, globally sourced raw materials was a conscious return to the roots of fine perfumery. The sheer number of components and the intricate layering gave Magie a multidimensional quality that made it both classic and innovative.

To women of the era, Magie would have symbolized glamour, internationalism, and emotional richness. It spoke to a longing for beauty and transcendence, promising not just scent, but a transportive experience. In a world still healing from conflict, Magie offered a kind of hope—distilled into liquid form.

In short, Magie by Lancôme was not just a perfume; it was a story, a vision, and a feeling captured in a bottle.

Magie by Lancôme was said to be a favorite fragrance of Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor—a woman whose name remains inseparably tied to one of the most sensational royal love stories of the 20th century. Born Bessie Wallis Warfield in the United States, she became internationally known after King Edward VIII abdicated the British throne in 1936 to marry her, a twice-divorced American socialite. The event shocked the world and permanently altered the line of succession in the British monarchy. As the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson became a style icon, renowned for her impeccable taste, elegance, and enigmatic charm. Her endorsement of a perfume like Magie would have added a layer of glamour and intrigue, reinforcing the fragrance’s aura of sophistication, mystery, and high society allure. For a perfume said to capture femininity, refinement, and subtle power, it is fitting that it appealed to a woman as complex and captivating as the Duchess herself.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Magie by Lancome is classified as a soft aldehydic green floral oriental fragrance for women. Magie de Lancôme is a fragrance of floral, woody, animalic, and amber facets. It is composed of jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, balsams, and vetiver. A great Lancôme classic, it is a perfume of seduction and prestige—powerful and long-lasting. Suitable for all women and for every occasion one awaits or hopes for, it works like a magic wand.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Amalfi lemon oil, Paraguayan petitgrain, Sicilian neroli, Persian galbanum resin, Hungarian clary sage
  • Middle notes:  Tunisian orange blossom absolute, Grasse jasmine absolute, Manila ylang ylang, Bulgarian rose otto, African geranium, Swiss hyacinth, Tuscan violet, ionone, Florentine iris, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, Indian carnation, honeysuckle, Algerian narcissus absolute, Peruvian heliotrope, heliotropin
  • Base notes: South American tolu balsam, Maltese labdanum, Spanish cistus, Canadian castoreum, Abyssinian civet, Sumatran styrax, Sudanese opoponax, Tyrolean oakmoss, Ethiopian frankincense, ambergris, Lebanese cedar, Atlas cedar moss, Singaporean patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, Tibetan musk, Reunion vetiver, Java vetiver, Madagascar vanilla, vanillin, Siamese benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin

The press kit from the launch reads: "Created from high quality ingredients from around the world comes a special fragrance. Nothing has been spared, its a modern blend, beginning with sparkling aldehydes, brightened by the pungency of Calabrian bergamot, then a sweet note of jasmine emerges, the finest jasmine of Grasse, France. This is then enriched with the softness of Italian violet, Florentine iris, delicate Swiss hyacinth, and Bulgarian rose petals. Woods like Lebanese cedar, the sandalwood of Mysore, earthy Singaporean patchouli, are heightened with the fragrance of grasses heralded by vetiver from Java and the Reunion Islands then rounded off with Tyrolean oakmoss. The fragrance is somehow mellowed by an odor of Florentine iris, balsamic Madagascar vanilla bean, splashes of aromatic spices, Ethiopian incense and exotic resins. Bound with luxurious fixatives of sensual wild musk from Tibet, precious Abyssinian civet and rare ambergris from the South Seas. Out of it all comes a perfume that is softly pervasive, utterly feminine. Classic, elegant, effervescent; long lasting."

Combat, 1954:
"Eau parfumee a Magie de Lancome: Dominant with jasmine, but very subtly chypre and woody, with a note of musk and a touch of patchouli. There is much more to this lighter version of a luxurious fragrance. Bells of lily of the valley tinkle freshly there, while an amaranth rose, queen of the precious ones, sheds its leaves. All offered in a sandalwood box, for the magic of an impossible and magnificent outdoor ball, or the Count Orgel would invite Madame de Lafayette to dance."


Scent Profile:

Smelling Magie by Lancôme is like opening a hand-written letter sealed in gold wax—each fold of paper releases another layer of a woman’s world in the 1940s: cultured, daring, but achingly refined. It is classified as a soft aldehydic green floral oriental, but that scarcely captures its full emotional register. This is a perfume built from the finest materials of the time—each sourced with exacting care, layered with synthetic artistry, and fused into a seamless orchestration of light and shadow.

The very first impression is a fizzing brightness—aldehydes shimmer at the top, abstract and clean, like light reflecting off polished crystal. These are not fruit or flower, but a radiant, metallic gleam—softened and softened again with gentle diffusion. The aldehydes here, likely including C10 (decanal) and C12 MNA (2-methylundecanal), provide an airy champagne-like sparkle. They don’t smell “of” anything, but they make everything else feel dressed in silk. These synthetics serve as the opening curtain, and behind them rise the elegant citrus oils.

The Calabrian bergamot, from the southern coast of Italy, is fruitier and softer than other bergamots. It brings a sweet-tart, green sparkle, with nuances of Earl Grey tea. Amalfi lemon oil, cold-pressed from lemons grown on cliffs bathed in Mediterranean light, is bracing and pure—more refined than lemons from other regions, with an almost floral afterbreath. The Paraguayan petitgrain, distilled from bitter orange leaves and twigs, brings a green woodiness that grounds the lemony flight. It’s slightly bitter, slightly floral, shadowed by a resinous twig-snapped edge.

Then emerges the Sicilian neroli, a delicate white-flower note distilled from bitter orange blossoms. Neroli from Sicily is revered for its honeyed lightness—it’s less sharp than its Tunisian or Moroccan counterparts, more powdery, more golden. A thread of Persian galbanum resin—glassy green, like sap broken from a twig—adds a vivid shock of verdant intensity. This Iranian variety has a softer, more herbal tone than the harsher French galbanum, and it ties beautifully to the Hungarian clary sage, which smells dusty, herbal, and musky—a natural bridge to the flowers to come.

At the center of Magie is an extravagant floral heart—complex, plush, and lush with the scent of a 1940s dressing room. The Tunisian orange blossom absolute is richer and heavier than neroli, smelling of white petals soaked in honey and animalic heat. It melts into Grasse jasmine absolute, the most prized of jasmines, whose scent is creamy, narcotic, and deeply indolic. Unlike jasmines grown elsewhere, Grasse jasmine offers an almost leathery undertone that gives Magie its intimate warmth.

From Manila comes ylang ylang, creamy and banana-floral with a sensual, spicy twist. This Filipino variant is rich, oily, and more rounded than its Madagascan cousin. Bulgarian rose otto unfurls in the background, deep and wine-dark with hints of clove, while African geranium lifts the bouquet with a green, almost minty bite—its citronellol content cutting through the lushness with freshness. Then the green-glass shimmer of Swiss hyacinth—cold, watery, and green-floral like spring flowers in melting snow—leads to Tuscan violet, more leathery than powdery, a cross between flower and suede. Here, the note is enriched with ionone, a violet-scented aroma molecule that doesn’t come from violets at all. Ionone bridges the floral heart to the powdery iris and adds a purple glow.

Florentine iris is costly, powdered elegance—its scent dry, rooty, buttery, and floral-powdery all at once. This iris butter from Italy’s heartland is among the most prized in the world, aged for years and possessing a noble, melancholy tone. It pairs exquisitely with lily of the valley, a cool, shy flower that only exists in perfumery through the magic of hydroxycitronellal, a synthetic molecule that recreates its soft, dewy floral scent with a delicate green-tinged cleanness. At the edge, Indian carnation brings a spicy, clove-inflected floral edge—complex and fiery—while honeysuckle and Algerian narcissus absolute weave sweetness and sharp green pollen. The Peruvian heliotrope adds the scent of powdered almonds and vanilla with a faint cherryish edge. Its sweetness is supported by heliotropin (piperonal), a synthetic that enhances the flower’s powdery-balsamic dimension.

The base of Magie is a study in vintage luxury—layered with balms, resins, animalics, and woods that stretch the scent’s shadow long into the night. The South American tolu balsam is warm and sweet, like benzoin with a touch of cinnamon, while Maltese labdanum lends a leathery, ambered richness, softer than labdanum from Spain or France. Spanish cistus, a close cousin, contributes a dry, herbaceous-flecked note—complex and slightly smoky. From Canada, castoreum lends its dark, leathery warmth, suggestive of suede gloves and fur collars. Its sharpness is softened by Abyssinian civet, used here in minute quantity for its velvety, animalic depth—now outlawed, but once a staple of sensual perfume. Sumatran styrax gives a warm, smoky-resinous backbone, while Sudanese opoponax (sweet myrrh) adds a smooth, honeyed, incense-like roundness.

Tyrolean oakmoss, gathered from alpine forests, is the true green soul of the base—deep, foresty, and mossy, more crisp and woody than Balkan moss. Its earthiness is echoed in the Ethiopian frankincense, which brings sacred smoke and a faint citrus-pepper quality. A cloud of ambergris—once a product of the sea—adds its legendary radiance and softness, blending with the dry woods of Lebanese cedar and Atlas cedar moss, which smells dusty, mineralic, and ancient. Singaporean patchouli is darker and earthier than the Indonesian variant—less sweet, more camphoraceous. It clings to the balsamic sweetness of Mysore sandalwood, rich and milky with a creamy wood profile impossible to replicate today. Tibetan musk, likely synthetic, echoes the civet’s sensuality, rounding out the base with an animalic hum.

The Reunion vetiver adds smoky, earthy root tones, while Java vetiver lends a brighter, drier greenness—two interpretations of the same plant from different soils. The Madagascar vanilla is dark, resinous, and spicy—far more complex than modern synthetic vanillin, though both are used here. Vanillin, a synthetic component, amplifies and sweetens the natural vanilla, enhancing its warmth without overwhelming it. Siamese benzoin brings a smooth, polished, caramelized resin note, and Venezuelan tonka bean, rich in coumarin, adds a nutty, hay-like sweetness that lingers. The coumarin itself—discovered in the 19th century—is one of the earliest aroma chemicals and lends a dry, almond-like warmth that threads through the entire base like golden embroidery.

Magie, in its full glory, is a portrait in scent of a vanished world—a world of elegant gloves, mirrored vanities, and slow, deliberate seduction. Each note is chosen not only for beauty but for resonance, and each synthetic is not a substitute, but a painter’s pigment, used to deepen the hues of nature. It is at once classical and emotionally rich, a fragrance that lingers like memory.




In a 1956 issue of Town & Country, nestled among elegant advertisements for travel and jewels, Lancôme's Magie appeared as a sophisticated French import, presented in a charming flacon accompanied by a miniature bouquet. Listed alongside its sister fragrance Trésor, the ad described both as "a rich, spicy blend," and offered them at an accessible $5—a modest sum for a perfume of such pedigree. This small detail hints at Magie’s dual nature: refined yet within reach, complex yet inviting. The tiny bouquet affixed to the bottle symbolized not only the floral heart of the fragrance but also the French flair for combining visual beauty with olfactory luxury.

By 1960, Harper’s Bazaar offered a more evocative description of Magie, calling it Lancôme’s “masterly potpourri,” a phrase that suggests both complexity and cohesion. The blend, the magazine wrote, was composed of “cedar, sandalwood and a profusion of grasses and flowers”—a poetic allusion to its multilayered structure. The emphasis on natural materials like woods and botanical elements placed Magie firmly within the elegant floral-oriental tradition, but with a green, almost outdoorsy freshness that reflected shifting tastes during the postwar era. Perfumes were beginning to feel more expansive and less powdered—less closed-in—and Magie responded to that trend with a cultivated balance of refinement and freedom.

Later, in a 1967 issue of The New Yorker, Magie was described with almost cinematic flair: “When the moment calls for a touch of magic… Magie.” This succinct, poetic tagline captured the emotional essence of the perfume—its ability to transform an ordinary moment into something enchanting. The ad continued to describe it as a “luxurious fragrance of France, in bottles, mists and fluted silver flacons,” emphasizing both its French heritage and the evolving modes of application that allowed women to wear the fragrance in new, modern ways. The mention of “fine stores all over the world” reflected its international appeal and status as a global luxury item, worn by women who wanted not only a beautiful scent, but also the aura of French elegance and timeless femininity.

Together, these descriptions chart the evolution of Magie across the 1950s and 60s—from a boutique treasure introduced with charm and intimacy to a worldwide symbol of grace and mystique.





Bottles:



Armand Petitjean’s vision for Magie extended far beyond crafting a fine perfume; he sought to create a total work of art—a bottle that would reflect the same poetic elegance and sculptural refinement as the fragrance itself. That vision came to life in the form of the Torsade, an extraordinary crystal flacon that married movement, light, and luxury in a way few perfume bottles had before. Designed by Georges Delhomme, Lancôme’s long-serving artistic director, and produced by both the Baccarat and Maurice Annebicque glassworks (Baccarat model #805), the bottle was inspired by the pleated folds of a kimono. Its twisted cubic form, or torsade, creates the illusion of swirling motion captured in solid glass, refracting light in shifting, gem-like patterns of thick, weighty pressed crystal with a beautifully balanced silhouette. The result is both sculptural and ethereal, echoing the mystery and elegance of the fragrance it held. The design features a chunky outer crystal overcap, an inner ground-glass stopper, and a slim metallic label that seals the neck of the bottle—an elegant solution that preserved the perfume while accentuating the purity of the crystal form.

Two sizes exist of this bottle design: 4.5 inches (11.4 cm) tall for the 1 oz. size, and a larger, more imposing flacon, measuring approximately 16 cm (6.3 inches) tall, most likely held 2 oz of parfum. 




Lancôme spared no detail in the packaging either, offering the Torsade flacon in three different presentation boxes. The most well-known is the Deluxe Presentation, a lavish white box covered in textured silk and decorated with a starburst motif in rainbow colors. Tiny foil spangles were applied by hand, designed to catch and reflect light just like the faceted glass inside. The interior was lined with hot pink satin padding, forming a rich contrast with the crisp exterior. Inside the lid, Lancôme’s gilded rose emblem added a final touch of refinement. The reverse bore the mark “Made in France,” a quiet affirmation of its luxurious origin. In 1952, this version retailed for $35—a premium sum at the time, equivalent to around $426 in today’s money (2025).

 


 







Another Deluxe Presentation came in a deep wine-colored velour-covered box topped with a wide, flat bow also made of velour—elegant in both color and texture. Inside, a bed of soft rose-pink satin cradled the crystal bottle. Lancôme described this version as “the grand finale to an impressive gift.” Retailing for $60 in 1952, this edition would equate to approximately $730 in today’s value—a considerable investment for a bottle of perfume, even by luxury standards.



The rarest of the three is a mythological-themed presentation box—a rectangular cardboard box covered in off-white paper and embossed in gold with an image of Pegasus, the winged horse of legend. Inside, a vivid fuchsia satin lining offset the elegant white-and-gold exterior. Also designed by Georges Delhomme, this version is exceptionally scarce. This was part of a series called Série des Emblèmes, first used in 1945 for all of Lancome perfumes (using the Jasmine stoppered bottles), so it is very rare to find it with the torsade flacon. A similar edition was reportedly offered as a gift to the Duchess of Windsor, further cementing its prestige and exclusivity.



Altogether, the Torsade flacon and its multiple luxurious presentations illustrate Lancôme’s dedication to creating perfume not just as a sensory experience, but as a collectible art object—designed to enchant, impress, and endure.

Opening such a bottle was a ritual of its own. Lancôme provided a charming and practical tip for uncorking the Magie flacon without damaging its precious crystal neck or stopper. From a 1963 guide:

“Circle the neck of the bottle with a velvet ribbon. Depressing the stopper with the index finger, ease the ribbon back and forth to generate warmth, discard the ribbon, and twist the stopper carefully.”

This method softened the seal gently and added an intimate, almost ceremonial touch to the experience—enhancing the sense that one was unsealing a spell, as the name Magie promised.

The Minneapolis Symphony Orchestra, Volumes 50-51, 1952:
Lancôme's. "Magie". A magical new fragrance blended from more than fifty essences to weave a spell of exotic scent from faraway places . . an aromatic triumph for the woman who wears it. Baccarat bottle, satin box $35.  


Standard Bottles:


Borne Carrée (Jasmine) Standard Bottle:


Lancôme’s Magie was presented in the house’s very first standard perfume bottle, the Borne Carrée—now commonly known as the Flacon Jasmin—a refined design introduced at the brand’s launch in 1934. Created by Georges Delhomme, Lancôme’s first artistic director, this flacon exemplifies timeless elegance with its cut and polished colorless crystal, square flat body softened by gentle curves and rounded edges, and a clear glass stopper intricately molded with jasmine blossoms—a symbol of beauty and refinement. Often mistaken for Lalique’s work, these stoppers were Delhomme’s original creation, produced mainly by Verreries Le Bresle. The understated yet luxurious Flacon Jasmin became Lancôme’s signature bottle from the 1930s through the 1960s, housing fragrances like Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Magie. Available in multiple sizes and two main shapes—a standard square and a rarer tall, narrow form—it set the foundation for later iconic bottles such as the Pagode and the Flacon Classique, reflecting Lancôme’s enduring commitment to elegant, harmonious design.

The flacon was available in several sizes—2 oz (4"), 1 oz (3.5"), 0.5 oz (3"), and 0.25 oz (2.75")—to accommodate different price points and gifting occasions, and it appeared in two main forms: the familiar standard square version and a rarer tall, narrow variant.



 


The Flacon Jasmin was available in several sizes to suit different price points and gifting occasions:
  • 2 oz Parfum, stands 4" tall.
  • 1 oz Parfum, stands 3.5" tall, which retailed for $22.50 in 1952—equivalent to about $273.87 in 2025
  • 0.5 oz Parfum, stands 3" tall, priced at $12.50 in 1952, or approximately $152.15 in 2025
  • 0.25 oz Parfum, stands 2.75" tall, sold for $7.00 in 1952, now equal to around $85.20 in 2025

Though simpler than the more dramatic presentations, these bottles were still crafted with care and quality crystal, offering an accessible yet elegant way to own a Lancôme fragrance. Their enduring charm and solid craftsmanship have made them favorites among vintage perfume collectors today.


Serie des Emblemes c1945:


Around 1945, Lancôme introduced the Série des Emblèmes, a lavish post-war presentation line showcasing their larger perfume formats as true objets d’art. Each fragrance was housed in the elegant Jasmin bottle, made of cut and polished glass with softly curved rectangular sides and a matching engraved stopper adorned with delicate jasmine motifs and a burst-cut edge. A fine gold braid encircled the neck, and a small gilded label discreetly named the scent. The long, rectangular case was equally refined—white morocco-style paper with gold-tooled embossing, crowned by a repoussé and gilded emblem created uniquely for each perfume, symbolizing its character (for example, Magie bore the mythical Pegasus). Offered in various sizes, the collection epitomized Lancôme’s artistry, blending symbolic design, meticulous craftsmanship, and theatrical presentation into a unified luxury statement.
  • 100 grams (3.5 oz) – Ref. 0014
  • 250 grams (8 oz) – Ref. 0015
  • 500 grams (16 oz) – Ref. 0016
  • 1,000 grams (32 oz) – Ref. 0017
 



"Pagode" Standard Bottle:


Marrakech was also presented in Lancôme’s Pagode flacon, one of the house’s most elegant and enduring designs, used for several of its prestige fragrances, including Magie. Crafted from clear, colorless glass, the Pagode flacon is distinguished by its gently curved silhouette, which subtly softens the rectangular outline and imparts a refined, tactile quality. This curvature, combined with harmonious proportions and softened edges, conveys an understated luxury that contrasts with the stark, angular lines of modernist bottle design. Topped with a concave, rectangular glass stopper that mirrors the gentle curve of the body, the bottle achieves a sleek balance between fluidity and symmetry. Reserved for parfum concentrations, the Pagode flacon was a vessel for Lancôme’s most concentrated and prestigious offerings, transforming the act of fragrance presentation into an art form in its own right.









 


Flacon Classique:


 In 1963, Lancôme introduced the Flacon Classique, a redesigned and modernized version of its standard perfume bottle. This new design replaced the earlier Flacon Jasmin, which had embodied Lancôme’s early romantic style with a soft floral aesthetic and a delicate intaglio stopper molded with a jasmine flower. While the Flacon Classique preserved the general shape of its predecessor—a square, flat body with gently rounded contours—it marked a distinct shift toward mid-century modernism, replacing decorative floral details with cleaner lines and a more structured form.

The most striking change was in the stopper. Instead of the sculpted blossom, the Flacon Classique featured a square-cut crystal stopper subtly angled to suggest a trapezoidal form. This precise geometry gave the bottle a sleeker, more architectural presence while maintaining its balanced proportions. The design’s restraint reflected the 1960s’ growing preference for minimal embellishment and clear, refined silhouettes, bringing the brand into step with contemporary design trends.


Originally created for Magie, the new bottle quickly became the standard for other Lancôme fragrances, a testament to its timeless versatility. One distinctive finishing touch was the cigaline scarf tied around the neck—made from a sheer, silk-like fabric with a fine honeycomb weave. This airy, almost transparent ribbon softened the flacon’s modern edges and provided a couture flourish, linking the design back to the brand’s luxurious heritage.

The Flacon Classique was produced in three main sizes: 2 fluid ounces (approximately 4.5 inches tall), 1 fluid ounce (3.75 inches tall), and 0.5 fluid ounces (3 inches tall). Packaging mirrored the understated elegance of the bottle, with refined but simple presentation boxes. For collectors today, these post-1963 flacons are valued not only for their purity of form but also for their place in Lancôme’s design evolution—bridging the ornamental grace of the past with the crisp modernity of the 1960s.





Magie Atomizer:


In the early 1960s, Magie was offered in a distinctive 3.25-inch conical bottle molded with an elegant spiral design, giving the glass a sense of movement and sophistication. The base is marked “Lancôme France,” confirming its origin, and the bottle was available with either a screw cap or an atomizer head for added versatility. Today, this design is considered very rare, making it a prized find for collectors of vintage Lancôme bottles.





 

Special Limited Edition Flacons:




Le Baton de Magicien Flacon:


Introduced in 1952, Magie de Lancôme appeared in the charming Le Bâton de Magicien flacon, a frosted glass perfume bottle shaped like a magic wand and adorned with embossed stars. Designed by Lalique, the whimsical 5-inch bottle is marked “Made in France” on the base, fitted with a brass cap, and holds 1/4 oz of parfum. Priced at $8.50 upon release, it contained a bouquet centered on jasmine with aromatic floral, grassy, and woody notes. Popular for over a decade, it remained available until at least 1968.














Flacon de Sac Le Sphere Magique Flacon:


From 1952 to 1962, Lancôme offered Magie in a festive Christmas edition known as Le Sphère Magique, a frosted, star-spangled spherical flacon affectionately called the “starry globe.” Designed by Georges Delhomme and inspired by the postwar Parisian gala Kermesse aux Étoiles, this miniature 0.25 oz perfume bottle features a weighted base that allows it to rock without tipping, embodying the playful “culbuto” principle. Molded with a star-studded pattern, it is topped with a gilded inner stopper and a golden outer cover adorned with stars, and could even be suspended from a Christmas tree as an ornament. Often mistaken for Lalique due to its frosted Art Deco-style glass, the flacon was actually produced by the Maurice Annebicque glassworks. Retailing at $10.00 at launch, the Sphere Magique remains a charming and highly collectible example of mid-century French perfume design, showcasing Delhomme’s artistry and festive ingenuity.





Flacon de Sac - La Goutte d'Eau:


In 1952, Lancôme introduced La Goutte d’Eau (“the crystal teardrop”), a polished clear crystal flacon de sac designed by Georges Delhomme to hold 1/5 oz of Magie or Trésor extrait. Likely produced by either Annebicque or Verreries de la Bresle, the bottle features a brass screw cap engraved with “Lancôme” and the fragrance name, fitted with a loop and silk ribbon so it could be suspended from a necklace, pin, chatelaine, or carried in a purse. Measuring 3 3/4″ long by 1 5/8″ wide, this elegant Christmas edition was offered only seasonally and remained available until 1968, making surviving examples rather rare.






Flacon de Sac - Envoy Bottle:


Introduced in the mid-1960s, the Envoy flacon de sac was a purse-sized, colorless glass bottle designed as an updated version of Lancôme’s 1947 “gold ribbon package.” Measuring 3.25 inches tall and holding 0.25 oz of parfum, it was fitted with a secure screw cap to prevent leakage while being carried, making it both practical and elegant for on-the-go use.








Eau Parfumee:


Launched in 1952, Lancôme’s Eau Parfumée occupied a refined middle ground in the fragrance hierarchy of its day. More concentrated than a typical eau de toilette, it offered a deeper, longer-lasting impression on the skin—but without the premium cost or intensity of the full parfum. This concentration level made it an accessible yet elegant option for women who desired a more substantial fragrance experience than a fleeting splash, but one that remained wearable for daytime or casual settings.

At the time, Eau Parfumée was a relatively novel category. It delivered much of the richness and complexity associated with parfum, but with a lighter touch and a more generous volume, ideal for frequent use. Today, we would compare its strength and longevity to the modern Eau de Parfum—typically containing 10–20% aromatic compounds—designed to project with grace and remain present on the skin throughout the day without overwhelming.

This format also reflected Lancôme’s commitment to making luxury fragrances more approachable. It bridged the gap between opulence and practicality, offering a polished expression of the house’s signature scents—like Magie—in a form that was both sophisticated and versatile. For many women, the Eau Parfumée was not just a substitute for the pure parfum, but a deliberate choice: a fragrance concentration that honored the beauty of the composition while suiting the rhythms of modern life. The Eau Parfumee was still being sold in 1968.

The Eau Parfumee was available in three sizes:
  • 2 oz (retailed for $4.00 in 1952)
  • 4 oz (retailed for $7.50 in 1952) bottle stands 6.5" tall
  • 1/4 litre (retailed for $15.00 in 1952) bottle stands 8.5" tall and has a glass stopper.






Eau de Magie:


Eau de Magie may have been created to be an eau de cologne. The first instance of its existence seems to be 1962. It was available as a splash and a spray mist.  
  • The 8 oz bottle of Eau de Cologne stands 5.25" tall.


Magie Eau de Cologne:


In 1963, the Magie Eau de Cologne appears. L’Eau de Cologne Magie, with its strength rated at 90° (or 90 proof, indicating a high alcohol content), was created to complete Lancôme’s prestigious range of colognes and lavender waters. While it belonged to the same luxury category as those classic offerings, its inspiration was entirely distinct. Unlike the traditional citrus-and-herb-based colognes that dominated the genre, Eau de Cologne Magie was conceived as an interpretation and extension of the fragrance profile of Lancôme’s celebrated perfume Magie.

This cologne was designed for more intimate, quiet moments—those tender hours of truth or illusion, where a lighter, more refreshing expression of one’s favorite perfume might be preferred. Though presented in the more ephemeral cologne format, it retained the flattering and tenacious character of the original Magie perfume, making it a rare example of a cologne that was not merely fresh and fleeting, but also elegant, expressive, and enduring. It was a way to wear the essence of Magie in a more subtle concentration, ideal for personal moments or daytime use, without sacrificing its prestige or olfactory signature.

  • The 2 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall.














Spray Bottles:


Magie Refillable Spray Mist
Magie Spray Mist Refill
Magie Spray Mist purse size







"


In 1962, Lancome introduced its " Magie Magic Mist " in a two ounce aerosol package. This is a gilded metal canister with white top.






In 1962, Magie was presented in a new spray format. Eau de Magie Imperial Mist, a 2 oz refillable canister enameled in antique ivory and trimmed with Florentine gold, retailed for $6.00 in 1962. The matching 0.25 oz Parfum Mist, a refillable purse flacon, retailed for $5.00.






In 1966, the "Magie Spray Concentre is free of gas or other artificial propellant so that in effect it is an atomizer which can be refilled by simply removing the cap and unscrewing the spray mechanism. The clear glass bottle is vertically ribbed.




















Miniature Bottles:


















In 1972/1973, Magie was available in the following forms: Parfum: Gift set; Bottles in various sizes (from 1/3 oz to 1 oz); Atomizer; Miniature bottle; Purse spray; Eau de Cologne (2 oz, 4 oz, 8 oz)

Bath & Body Products:


Magie was also available in perfumed soap (savon), bath oil, bath crystals, hair spray, hand and body lotion, face powder, dusting powder and talcum powder. The Magie Hair Spray was really a fragrance for the hair scented with Magie perfume plus several conditioning and beautifying ingredients. 








Fate of the Fragrance:



Magie by Lancôme was first launched around 1942, at the height of World War II. Introducing a new perfume during such a difficult period was an audacious move, but it also reflected the way fragrance could provide comfort, escapism, and a touch of glamour in uncertain times. Its very name—Magie, meaning “Magic”—suggested mystery, charm, and the transformative power of scent, perfectly suited to lift spirits and evoke elegance despite the somber backdrop of the war years.

The perfume, however, was not introduced to the American market until around 1950, nearly a decade later. By then, the postwar years had ushered in a renewed appetite for luxury, and Magie’s allure fit seamlessly into this atmosphere of optimism and sophistication. Though the exact date of its discontinuation is unknown, the fragrance continued to hold its place in Lancôme’s catalog for decades, as evidenced by its availability in 1977.

Magie remains remembered as one of Lancôme’s classic creations, embodying both the resilience of beauty during wartime and the enduring appeal of French perfumery in the postwar era. Its longevity in the market underscores its popularity and its ability to capture the imagination of women across generations.



1989 Reissue:


In 1989, Lancôme celebrated its rich fragrance heritage with the launch of Les Trésors de Lancôme, a limited edition collection that reissued some of the house’s most beloved perfumes. This special line included iconic scents such as Sikkim, Magie, Balafre, Climat, Sagamore, Magie Noire, Ô Intense, Ô, and Trophée, each offered in both Parfum and Eau de Parfum concentrations. The bottles were presented in luxurious cardboard boxes covered with gold paper, emphasizing the elegance and timeless quality of the fragrances. Collectors and perfume enthusiasts could purchase individual bottles or a curated trio of three 15ml flacons, allowing them to experience multiple classics in miniature form.

Promotional materials at the time highlighted the nostalgic and evocative nature of the collection: “Give 21 years of French fashion in three original fragrances: Les Trésors de Lancôme. Magie (1950), Climat (1967), and Sikkim (1971). Send someone you love on a journey through time and space to Paris in the ‘Fifties, the ‘Sixties, the ‘Seventies. The power of fragrance to bring back times past is legendary.”

The perfumes were recreated from the original formulas preserved in the Lancôme archives in Paris, ensuring that each scent captured the character and essence of its original era. The offerings—Eau de Parfum in 50ml flacons retailing at $60, or a coffret of three 0.5 oz bottles for $100—presented these classics as collectible treasures, akin to estate jewels or haute couture, emphasizing their enduring style, beauty, and charm across generations.





2003 to 2005 Reformulation & Reissue:


Starting in 2003 and into 2005, Lancôme reformulated and relaunched Magie as part of La Collection Lancôme (a collection of “Exclusives” to rediscover at the Lancôme Institute), a prestigious series dedicated to reviving some of the house’s most celebrated heritage fragrances such as Climat, Cuir, Sagamore, Sikkim and a newer fragrance Mille et Une Roses. The reissue reflected both the perfume’s historic importance and its enduring appeal, offering it in two concentrations: eau de parfum and eau de toilette. This relaunch gave modern perfume lovers the opportunity to rediscover one of Lancôme’s most elegant and long-cherished scents, carefully reinterpreted while honoring its original spirit.

Lancôme described the project as a tribute to its long history, emphasizing that the house had been a Maison de Parfum for over 70 years. As part of the collection, Magie was presented as one of five masterpieces of composition, each chosen for their timeless character and crafted with rare, high-quality materials. The house emphasized that these fragrances conveyed “the matchless elegance of Lancôme Haute Parfumerie,” highlighting both technical refinement and emotional resonance.

The flacon for the collection was equally significant. Designed by Georges Delhomme in the 1960s, it was originally created for some of Lancôme’s earliest perfumes. Its clean, transparent glass lines offered a minimal yet elegant stage for the fragrances, a nod to tradition while appealing to modern sensibilities. For Magie, this setting reinforced the sense of timeless sophistication that the fragrance embodied.

Lancôme described the fragrance itself as an Amber Floral, first created in 1950. The official narrative accompanying the relaunch conjured a theatrical image: “Magic of a premiere evening. The divine actress has just left the stage, her arms laden with roses. In a corner of her dressing room is a vase overflowing with bunches of jasmine. Sublime, in a dress designed for her by the leading Couturier, she is looking at herself absentmindedly in a large mirror, when she sees a posy of violets on her dressing table. Touched, she presses this anonymous tribute against her heart, then goes out, leaving a scented trail of musk and amber.”

This evocative description underscored the glamour and drama of Magie, aligning it with the golden age of haute couture and French elegance. The 2005 revival presented Magie not just as a perfume, but as an experience—rich with history, artistry, and storytelling.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? The newer formulation of Magie is classified as an amber floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, limonene, citral, citronellol, linalool, hydroxycitronellal,  
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, , farnesol, violet, alpha isomethyl ionone, geraniol, eugenol, isoeugenol, amyl cinnamal, cinnamal, cinnamyl alcohol 
  • Base notes: hexyl cinnamal, benzyl alcohol, benzyl salicylate, coumarin, amber, musk, sandalwood

Scent Profile:


When one first encounters the 2005 formulation of Magie, it opens with a luminous clarity. The bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, is immediately recognizable for its radiant freshness. Calabrian bergamot is prized above all others because the unique coastal climate produces an oil that balances sparkling citrus brightness with a delicate floral undertone, never too sharp, never too sweet. Alongside it, the synthetic molecules limonene and citral heighten the citrus facets—limonene adds a juicy, zesty orange-like effervescence, while citral lends a lemony brightness that sharpens the edges of the bergamot. Citronellol and linalool, both naturally found in roses and citrus, bring a softer, more rounded floral sweetness that ensures the opening feels polished and elegant rather than bracing. Finally, hydroxycitronellal, a landmark synthetic with its dewy, lily-of-the-valley impression, layers over the citrus, giving the top notes a gentle, aqueous quality, as though the freshness were touched with early morning rain.

As the fragrance settles, the heart blossoms into a deeply romantic floral bouquet. Rose, long regarded as the queen of flowers in perfumery, here takes on a velvety richness, softened by geraniol, which amplifies its petal-like sweetness and freshness. The jasmine note, likely a blend of Indian or Egyptian varieties, is warm, narcotic, and creamy—Egyptian jasmine in particular is treasured for its indolic depth, which gives the heart of Magie a sensual, almost honeyed warmth. Violet lends a powdery, nostalgic air, while alpha isomethyl ionone, a violet-inspired synthetic, enhances this softness with its elegant, woody-floral tonality. Together, they create a delicate haze of refinement. Farnesol adds a fresh, green-floral quality, supporting the jasmine’s radiant bloom, while eugenol and isoeugenol, naturally present in clove, infuse the bouquet with a spicy warmth that keeps the flowers from becoming overly demure. The trio of amyl cinnamal, cinnamal, and cinnamyl alcohol brings in a cinnamon-like sweetness, both powdery and slightly woody, weaving spice into the heart and hinting at the warmer base to come.

As the perfume deepens, the base becomes a soft, enveloping cocoon. Amber unfolds with a resinous warmth, glowing with a golden richness that lingers on the skin. It is enriched by benzyl salicylate, a synthetic that imparts a smooth, creamy, almost solar floral warmth, linking the floral heart with the base seamlessly. Coumarin introduces its characteristic hay-like, almond-tonka sweetness, a note that feels both comforting and slightly gourmand. The woody depth of sandalwood, likely Mysore in character, lends a milky, buttery smoothness that anchors the fragrance with luxury, its creamy depth enhanced by the balancing presence of musk, which provides a skin-like softness and sensuality. Supporting notes like benzyl alcohol bring a faintly balsamic tone, while hexyl cinnamal contributes a light, jasmine-like green floralcy that maintains brightness into the drydown.

The result is an amber-floral fragrance that balances the old-world richness of natural florals with the precision and refinement of synthetics. The aroma chemicals never overwhelm but rather heighten the natural beauty—limonene makes the bergamot sparkle brighter, alpha isomethyl ionone makes the violet more ethereal, and hydroxycitronellal gives the entire structure a dew-kissed freshness. Magie’s 2005 formulation feels like walking through a grand theater at night, flowers scattered on the dressing table, their perfume mingling with the warmth of woods and the golden glow of amber, leaving a trail that is luminous, refined, and unforgettable.


Bottle:


The bottle used is the same style as the one used in the mid-1960s, the new standard bottle, the flacon classique, which replaced the jasmine stoppered bottle.




Fate of the Fragrance:


Magie was reissued by Lancôme in honor of its 70th anniversary, presented as part of a special celebration of the house’s heritage. Originally debuting in 1950, the fragrance returned in a refined edition that paid homage to its legacy while appealing to a modern audience. The relaunch positioned Magie as a symbol of Lancôme’s timeless elegance and craftsmanship, highlighting its status as one of the brand’s most treasured creations. Offered at $100 for 1.7 ounces, the fragrance was presented as a luxury object, balancing exclusivity with accessibility for those wishing to experience a piece of Lancôme’s storied past. The anniversary edition underscored the house’s enduring commitment to preserving its classics, allowing a new generation to rediscover the allure and sophistication that defined Magie from its very first launch.


This version of Magie was also discontinued, date unknown.

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