Launched in 1942, Lancôme’s Marrakech was a fragrance that embodied the allure and mystery of French Morocco—a land that captivated European imagination with its exotic landscapes, vibrant culture, and intricate artistry. The name "Marrakech" itself refers to the historic city in Morocco, and is pronounced as “mah-rah-kesh.” The word evokes rich sensory images: sun-drenched orange groves, the intricate patterns of Moorish architecture, the softness of flowing silks, and the intoxicating blend of spices and florals carried on desert winds. Emotionally, it conjures feelings of adventure, opulence, and an escape to a faraway, enchanting world.
The perfume debuted during the difficult years of World War II, a time marked by austerity and upheaval in Europe. Despite the hardships, there remained a yearning for beauty and fantasy—an opportunity for women to momentarily transcend the constraints of war through scent. This period, often described as the Occupied Years in France, saw fashion and perfumery navigate a balance between practicality and desire. While the war limited resources, the fascination with exoticism and the “Oriental” aesthetic in perfumery grew stronger, reflecting a broader cultural fascination with far-flung places and the romance of the unknown.
Armand Petitjean’s choice of the name "Marrakech" captured this zeitgeist perfectly. It signaled a departure from the restrained and classic floral perfumes of the past toward something more opulent and sensuous. Classified as a seductive floral oriental, Marrakech featured dominant notes of rose, magnolia, and orange blossom delicately layered over a rich leather base. This combination evoked both softness and strength, echoing the dual nature of Marrakech itself—a city of beauty and resilience. The original 1945 Lancôme catalog described the scent as a journey through “the perfumed breezes of orange groves and Moorish gardens, mingled with the deep, heady aromas of caravans paused in the heat of the desert,” perfectly capturing its exotic and luxurious essence.
In the context of the 1940s perfume market, Marrakech was both in step with and distinct from contemporary trends. Oriental fragrances were gaining popularity, reflecting a growing European interest in Eastern and North African influences. However, Marrakech stood out by its specific evocation of French Morocco’s unique cultural tapestry—melding floral elegance with leathery warmth and a hint of spice, making it a sophisticated and memorable signature. For women of the era, wearing Marrakech was more than applying fragrance; it was an invitation to indulge in mystery, romance, and a sensory escape to a distant, dazzling world.
In 1947, newspapers highlighted Lancôme’s Marrakech as a truly exceptional creation—a perfume composed of “all manner of rare flowers and even foliage.” Anticipated to arrive in America by Christmas or shortly thereafter, it was described as “one of the very exotic scents,” immediately capturing the imagination of fragrance lovers craving something both luxurious and adventurous.
By 1949, advertisements further emphasized Marrakech’s allure, portraying it as “a heady, exotic odeur for evening glamour.” The fragrance was recommended primarily for evening wear, praised for its rich blend of musk, civet, and subtle hints of leather interwoven with floral notes. This animalic foundation, derived from essential oils of animal origin, lent Marrakech a depth and sensuality characteristic of many sophisticated perfumes of the time. Packaged in elegantly small quarter-ounce bottles housed in gold-embossed boxes bearing the authentic Paris import label, Marrakech was positioned as an elite scent. Its name evoked cinematic fantasies of Morocco, the mysterious allure of “Orientalia,” and the timeless romanticism of films like “The Sheik,” starring Rudolph Valentino. This connection to glamour and exoticism gave Marrakech a cultural resonance beyond just its scent.
The perfume itself was often described as “spicy” and “tangy,” reflecting its Oriental character rooted in the vibrant, sun-drenched landscapes of French Morocco. The scent wove a captivating spell through its misty essence of treasured orange blossoms, which added brightness and floral complexity to the base of musk and leather. Marrakech was more than a fragrance—it was an olfactory journey, transporting wearers to the enchanting, warm, and exotic world of North Africa, where ancient traditions met the opulence of noble interiors and vibrant gardens.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: aldehyde C-9, Calabrian bergamot, Italian orange, neroli, nerol, Moroccan orange blossom absolute, linalool, linalyl acetate, benzaldehyde, Hungarian clary sage
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellol, Chinese magnolia, Bulgarian rose otto, Turkish rose absolute, phenyl ethyl alcohol, Bourbon geranium, geraniol, geranyl formate, Egyptian jasmine absolute, indol, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Tunisian orange blossom absolute, methyl anthranilate, Tuscan violet, Florentine orris, ionone, methyl naphthyl ketone, Saigon cinnamon, cinnamic alcohol, Zanzibar carnation, Ceylon clove, isoeugenol
- Base notes: leather, isobutyl quinoline, ambergris, ambrein, Penang patchouli, Java vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Siamese benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Mysore sandalwood, Maltese labdanum, Tibetan musk, musk ketone, Indian musk ambrette, South American tolu balsam, Peru balsam
Scent Profile:
Imagine inhaling the vibrant opening of Marrakech by Lancôme, a seductive floral oriental that immediately envelops you in a complex symphony of scents. The top notes burst forth with the crisp, sparkling freshness of aldehyde C-9, lending a subtle waxy brightness that lifts the entire composition with an elegant, almost soapy effervescence. This is quickly followed by the juicy, radiant citrus notes of Calabrian bergamot and Italian orange, both prized for their high-quality, aromatic profiles: Calabria’s bergamot is renowned for its sweet, slightly floral nuance with a bright, juicy zestiness, while Italian orange adds a juicy and slightly tart juiciness.
The orange blossom facets deepen with rich, resinous neroli and nerol, their bitter-sweet and honeyed citrus essence bringing a delicate, ethereal glow that dances lightly on the skin. The heart of this top accord is anchored by the lush, opulent Moroccan orange blossom absolute, sourced from one of the world’s most famous regions for this floral treasure, prized for its rich, heady, and slightly green facets. Balancing this floral-citrus bouquet, linalool and linalyl acetate, natural components of lavender and bergamot, add a soft, sweet, and slightly herbaceous smoothness, while benzaldehyde imparts a subtle almond-like warmth that echoes the sweetness of blooming petals. Intriguingly, Hungarian clary sage contributes a fresh, aromatic, slightly fruity herbal green note, lending a refined complexity that cuts through the sweetness and enhances the perfume’s intrigue.
As the perfume evolves into the heart, a rich floral tapestry unfolds, starting with the delicate freshness of lily of the valley, which carries a clean, watery floral quality, evoking morning dew on a secret garden path. The sweetness is rounded out by hydroxycitronellal, a synthetic molecule well-loved for its soft, rosy, and slightly citrusy aroma that heightens the natural florals. The floral core reveals the creamy, magnolia-like softness of Chinese magnolia, a rare and prized ingredient known for its creamy, fruity floral scent with a subtle lemony freshness. The famed Bulgarian rose otto and Turkish rose absolute intertwine, creating a rich, opulent bouquet of rose that is simultaneously deep, velvety, and fresh, showcasing the unique terroir influences—Bulgarian rose being celebrated for its lush, honeyed floral nuances, while Turkish rose offers a spicier, fruitier aroma. Complementing the rose are subtle, ethereal facets of phenyl ethyl alcohol, enhancing the rosy scent with a fresh, clean floral sweetness.
A touch of aromatic elegance comes from Bourbon geranium and its principal component, geraniol, which add a fresh, green-rosy note that lifts the florals, while geranyl formate lends a fruity, sweet nuance akin to ripe berries. The floral heart further deepens with the intoxicating richness of Egyptian jasmine absolute, whose creamy, narcotic bouquet contrasts beautifully with the luminous Nossi-Be ylang ylang from Madagascar, famous for its rich, sweet, slightly fruity and tropical character. Complementing these is the luxurious Tunisian orange blossom absolute, whose warm, honeyed facets blend seamlessly with the floral bouquet.
Mysterious and slightly animalic undertones emerge from methyl anthranilate, adding a grape-like fruity softness, balanced by the violet powderiness of Tuscan violet and the earthy, woody elegance of Florentine orris, a root-derived ingredient prized for its soft, powdery, and slightly buttery aroma. The scent’s sensuality is enhanced by ionone, which evokes the subtle fragrance of violets, and the mysterious, woody-floral tones of methyl naphthyl ketone. Spicy accents from Saigon cinnamon, cinnamic alcohol, Zanzibar carnation, Ceylon clove, and isoeugenol bring warmth, depth, and exotic intrigue, creating a richly layered bouquet that invites the wearer into a world of opulence and mystery.
The base unfolds with an alluring leather note, evoking the tactile warmth and refined luxury of supple Moroccan leather goods. The rare and powerful isobutyl quinoline adds a smoky, almost medicinal edge that enhances the leather's depth and complexity, creating a bold foundation. This is paired with the natural marine-ambergris accord, whose salty, animalic nuances lend a mysterious sensuality, complemented by ambrein, a synthetic ambergris substitute that adds warmth and longevity. Earthy richness arises from Penang patchouli, noted for its creamy, smooth, and less harsh quality compared to Indonesian patchouli, and the smoky, green facets of Java vetiver and its acetate derivative, vetiveryl acetate, prized for their smoky, woody character.
Yugoslavian oakmoss, valued for its rich, earthy mossiness, blends beautifully with the sweet, creamy facets of Mexican vanilla and pure vanillin, creating a luscious gourmand softness in the dry-down. The balsamic warmth of Siamese benzoin, the spicy sweetness of Venezuelan tonka bean, and the smooth, resinous richness of Maltese labdanum add layers of depth and complexity. The woody, soft, and creamy scent of Mysore sandalwood, renowned for its rich, sweet, and milky facets, adds an exquisite finish.
Animalic musk notes—Tibetan musk, musk ketone, and Indian musk ambrette—imbue the perfume with sensuality and a soft, skin-like warmth, rounding out the base with a lingering, intimate trail. Lastly, the sweet, resinous tones of South American tolu balsam and Peru balsam provide a gentle, comforting finish, enhancing the perfume’s rich oriental character.
Together, these ingredients create Marrakech as a multi-faceted journey—starting with a sparkling floral citrus freshness, evolving into a lush, exotic bouquet, and finally settling into a deep, warm, leather-infused oriental embrace. The blend of natural absolutes, oils, and expert use of aroma chemicals crafts a fragrance that is both timeless and evocative, conjuring the mystery, romance, and opulence of a Moroccan palace under a starlit desert sky.
"Marrakech by Lancome: Warm perfume of light leather dominated by rose, enlarged eye with kohl to better see from a distance, flower bed in the garden of the sultanas, subtle ecstatic water jet in the basin. Marrakech, colorful perfume, contains all these images and draws you into the most seductive of daydreams..."
Bottle:
For this fragrance, Lancôme created an exceptional deluxe presentation. The perfume was housed in a flacon designed by Lalique, one of France’s foremost glassmakers. The amphora-shaped bottle, elegant and pared-down in form, featured a long slender neck and held a golden topaz-colored perfume. This central bottle was encased in a thick, clear glass frame adorned with stylized palmettes and elevated on a pedestal—creating the illusion of a precious object enshrined within a sculptural glass tableau.
The bottle designed by Marc Lalique, but the technical problems for production were too great. He passed the project to Georges Delhomme and the bottle was made by the Maurice Annebicque glassworks.
The packaging further reinforced the exotic theme. The bottle came nestled within a unique, vertical presentation box with eight unevenly sized panels, each decorated in rich green and red with gold accents. The cardboard box was sheathed in red and green Moroccan paper (the colors of the Moroccan flag). The top of the box was finished with a crenellated frieze, resembling architectural motifs found in Moroccan design. It opened like a mini-panoramic folding screen to reveal the perfume displayed on a vermilion and white base, in front of a scenic illustration that suggested an oasis at the edge of the desert.
Marrakech was available in two sizes:
– 30 grams (1 oz), Reference No. 5502
– 60 grams (2 oz), Reference No. 5503
This presentation was a striking example of Lancôme’s postwar creativity—melding French luxury, exotic fantasy, and meticulous attention to design.
Flacon Veloutes:
Marrakech was presented in the Flacon Veloutes, part of Lancôme’s 1942 Édition Grand-Luxe, an exquisite example of mid-20th-century French perfumery design that masterfully combined elegance with artistry. Designed by Jean Sala, the flacon is crafted from pressed, frosted colorless glass, molded into a sleek rectangular form with a distinctly cubic silhouette. Its body is adorned on two opposing faces with an intricate relief of four graceful spirals, or volutes, adding a dynamic yet refined decorative element. This motif is echoed in the flat disc-shaped stopper, which bears the same swirling design, creating a harmonious unity between bottle and closure. The flacon sports a gold pampille label, a delicate hanging accent that underscores its prestige.
The presentation was further elevated by a case designed by Hadrien Leduc, covered in richly printed polychrome paper illustrated with tropical flowers and hummingbirds, and set upon a base of ivory-colored galalith (or Pollopas plastic), a detail that enhances its sophistication. Standing 12.5 cm tall, the Flacon Veloutes was used for several Lancôme perfumes of the early 1940s—including Bocages, Flèches, Cuir, Tropiques, Conquête, Tendres Nuits, Peut-Être, Kypre, and Marrakech—reflecting the brand’s dedication to pairing exceptional fragrance compositions with packaging of equal refinement and beauty.
Standard Bottles:
Borne Carrée (Jasmine Stopper):
Lancôme’s Marrakech was presented in the house’s very first standard perfume bottle, the Borne Carrée—now commonly known as the Flacon Jasmin—a refined design introduced at the brand’s launch in 1934. Created by Georges Delhomme, Lancôme’s first artistic director, this flacon exemplifies timeless elegance with its cut and polished colorless crystal, square flat body softened by gentle curves and rounded edges, and a clear glass stopper intricately molded with jasmine blossoms—a symbol of beauty and refinement. Often mistaken for Lalique’s work, these stoppers were Delhomme’s original creation, produced mainly by Verreries Le Bresle. The understated yet luxurious Flacon Jasmin became Lancôme’s signature bottle from the 1930s through the 1960s, housing fragrances like Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Magie. Available in multiple sizes and two main shapes—a standard square and a rarer tall, narrow form—it set the foundation for later iconic bottles such as the Pagode and the Flacon Classique, reflecting Lancôme’s enduring commitment to elegant, harmonious design.
The flacon was available in several sizes—2 oz (4"), 1 oz (3.5"), 0.5 oz (3"), and 0.25 oz (2.75")—to accommodate different price points and gifting occasions, and it appeared in two main forms: the familiar standard square version and a rarer tall, narrow variant.
"Pagode" Standard Bottle:
Marrakech was also presented in Lancôme’s Pagode flacon, one of the house’s most elegant and enduring designs, used for several of its prestige fragrances, including Magie. Crafted from clear, colorless glass, the Pagode flacon is distinguished by its gently curved silhouette, which subtly softens the rectangular outline and imparts a refined, tactile quality. This curvature, combined with harmonious proportions and softened edges, conveys an understated luxury that contrasts with the stark, angular lines of modernist bottle design. Topped with a concave, rectangular glass stopper that mirrors the gentle curve of the body, the bottle achieves a sleek balance between fluidity and symmetry. Reserved for parfum concentrations, the Pagode flacon was a vessel for Lancôme’s most concentrated and prestigious offerings, transforming the act of fragrance presentation into an art form in its own right.
The Pagode flacon is perhaps most closely associated with Lancôme’s “Série des Émaux”, or “Enamel Collection,” a limited series of parfum presentations that were as visually enchanting as they were olfactively luxurious. While the scents varied, the presentation remained consistent: refined, feminine, and evocative of antique French enamel work. The name of the collection derived not from the bottle, but from the elaborate presentation box, which was a central part of the design.
This box was constructed in a drop-top style, with the lid hinged to open downward, revealing the perfume inside like a precious object in a jewel box. The exterior was adorned with embossed motifs, imitating the glossy, multi-colored look of polychrome enamel. These decorative flourishes often included romantic scenes, floral garlands, and natural elements, echoing the aesthetic of 18th-century French decorative arts, particularly those seen on Limoges enamel plaques or painted snuff boxes. The box interior was lined in a luxurious white moiré fabric, further enhancing the sense of preciousness and craftsmanship.
Though the Pagode flacons were primarily used for the “Série des Émaux,” they were also paired with other types of presentation boxes, suggesting their versatility and appeal across multiple perfume lines. The bottles were offered in two sizes: the smaller measuring approximately 3.25 inches tall by 1.25 inches at the base, and the larger about 4 inches tall by 1.5 inches at the base.
A noteworthy event occurred when the perfume was given as a souvenir at the Bal des Petits Lits Blancs held on October 14, 1946. Organized for the benefit of "small white beds of France," the charity ball was intended to raise funds for the benefit of works for children.
Bouchon Vannerie Standard Bottle:
Marrakech was also presented in Lancôme’s Bouchon Vannerie standard flacon, a 1940s design that blends refined elegance with a touch of artisanal charm. Its most distinctive feature is the frosted glass stopper, molded in relief with an intricate basketweave pattern that captures the look and feel of handwoven wicker. This tactile detail not only provided visual interest but also evoked the traditions of French craftsmanship, where artistry lies as much in texture as in form. The clear glass body offered a simple, graceful counterpoint to the ornate stopper, allowing the golden hue of the perfume to enhance the overall presentation. Discreetly embossed “Lancôme France” on the base, the flacon carried an air of authenticity and understated prestige, marking it as the work of one of France’s most celebrated perfume houses.
The Fate of the Fragrance:
Marrakech by Lancôme was discontinued at an unknown date, though it remained available on the market well into the early 1960s, with records confirming it was still being sold in 1961. The exact timing of its withdrawal from production remains unclear, reflecting the often gradual phase-out process common with many vintage fragrances as consumer tastes evolved and new scents emerged.
During its active years, Marrakech captured a distinctive niche with its seductive floral oriental profile, appealing to women drawn to exoticism and the romantic allure of faraway places. Its disappearance marked the end of an era for Lancôme’s exploration of rich, opulent fragrances inspired by North African culture and landscapes—a theme less prominent in subsequent collections. Despite its eventual discontinuation, Marrakech’s continued availability into the 1960s suggests it maintained a loyal following and retained relevance amid changing fashion and perfumery trends before quietly exiting the market.
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