Dating Lancôme Fragrances: A Collector’s Guide:
For fragrance collectors and historians, knowing when a perfume was made is just as important as knowing its scent profile. Packaging details, label wording, and manufacturing marks often hold the key to unlocking a bottle’s history. Over the decades, Lancôme has followed changes in international trade laws, safety regulations, and marketing practices—each leaving behind subtle clues that can be used to date a fragrance with surprising accuracy.
This guide offers a chronological overview of those clues, from the smallest “dram” bottles of the 1930s to the batch codes, barcodes, and regulatory symbols of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Whether you are evaluating a rare pre-war extrait, identifying a mid-century eau de toilette, or verifying a modern release, these visual and textual markers can help place your Lancôme bottle in its proper era.
By understanding these details, you can better assess the rarity, authenticity, and historical context of your fragrance—an essential skill for serious collectors, researchers, and enthusiasts alike.
Dating Lancôme Perfumes Prior to the 1970s:
If your Lancôme fragrance predates the 1970s, a variety of distinctive packaging and labeling details can help determine its age. In the 1930s and 1940s, perfume bottles often listed their contents in drams—an old measurement equal to roughly 5 ml or 1/8 oz. These small, purse-sized bottles offered an affordable way for women to purchase their favorite scents during the economic difficulties of the Great Depression and the material shortages of the Second World War.
A notable clue from the wartime era is the label reading: “Returning this bottle to the perfumer is a national duty.” Bottles bearing this message date between 1940 and 1945, when French perfume houses encouraged customers to return empty bottles for refilling. This practice helped conserve resources at a time when glass production was restricted. While efficient in theory, it remains unclear how many bottles were actually returned to the perfumers.
Another important dating feature appears in the 1950s. Following stricter regulations by the Federal Trade Commission, bottles were sometimes marked with the words “created,” “compounded,” or “assembled” in France or the USA. This was intended to prevent misleading claims that a perfume was fully made in France when, in reality, the fragrance oils were imported but bottled domestically. For example, an American branch of a French perfume house, such as Guerlain, could import the perfume concentrate but would use American alcohol and bottles to reduce customs duties and increase profits.
From the 1950s onward, bottles often carried clear labels showing the fragrance’s volume, positioned on the front, back, or base. Around the same period, another useful indicator—the marking SDA (Specially Denatured Alcohol)—appeared on labels, a common feature during the 1940s and 1950s.
By the mid-1950s, perfume packaging began including the alcohol percentage, expressed as a number followed by a degree symbol (for example, 80° or 90°). These markings were typical for eau de toilette and cologne strengths and serve as a helpful clue for dating bottles from the post-1950s period.
When dating early Lancôme perfumes, it is important to consider the brand’s formative years and the longevity of its first creations. Lancôme launched in 1935 with an ambitious debut collection of five fragrances: Bocages, Tendres Nuits, Conquête, Kypre, and Tropiques, each accompanied by luxurious, custom-designed presentations. Several of these scents remained in production for decades, providing a generous dating range for bottles found on the secondary market. For example, Bocages, Tendres Nuits, and Kypre were still being sold as late as 1960, while Conquête continued until 1965. Tropiques, a woody–mossy–leafy chypre, remained available until 1961, making it one of the longer-lived early releases. These overlapping availability dates mean that the bottle design, labeling style, and packaging details often provide more precise dating clues than the perfume’s name alone.
Other 1935 creations such as Cachet Bleu and Étiquette Noire also enjoyed remarkable longevity, with the latter lasting until 1969—over three decades after its introduction. Révolte, launched in 1936, underwent a notable identity shift when it was renamed Cuir in 1939, but both versions continued to be sold until around 1960. This renaming was likely a strategic move to highlight the fragrance’s rich leather character, which appealed to both male and female consumers of the time. In 1937, Lancôme introduced Peut-Être (Perhaps), which stayed in production until 1960, followed by Flèches in 1938, a perfume that remained on the market until 1961. The final entry in this early timeline, Cuir—the renamed Révolte—was still available at the start of the 1960s.
Dating these early perfumes requires examining not only fragrance names and sales records but also small packaging and manufacturing changes over the years. Variations in glass clarity, label typography, stopper shapes, and box materials can help pinpoint whether a bottle is from the original prewar production or one of the many postwar reissues. In this way, Lancôme’s early catalog offers a rich and rewarding challenge for collectors and historians seeking to place each piece in its proper historical context.
From the early 1940s through the late 1960s, Lancôme expanded its perfume portfolio with a mix of refined florals, opulent orientals, and sophisticated colognes—many of which enjoyed decades-long production runs. These fragrances not only carried the elegance and luxury of the brand’s French heritage but also adapted to changing markets, occasionally undergoing renaming to suit international audiences.
In 1942, three important releases appeared: Marrakech (still sold in 1961), Trésor (which remained available until 1969), and Magie—a particularly enduring scent, staying in production until 1981. The following year, La Vallée Bleue debuted and was still being sold in 1952. In 1944, Lancôme issued Plaisir, though this fragrance is rare today. Due to Parfums Raphael’s existing perfume of the same name, it may have been marketed only in France and South America, possibly under a different name in the U.S. That same year also saw the launches of Gardenia (sold until 1960) and Chèvrefeuille (a rare find today, last noted in 1948).
The post-war years brought fresh offerings: Lavandes appeared in 1945, enjoying remarkable longevity until 1971. In 1946, Qui Sait? was introduced—essentially Peut-Être renamed for English-speaking markets, still sold under this title in 1960. That year also saw Fêtes de Paris, a cologne that remained available until 1960. In 1947, two seasonal colognes were released—Eau de Senteur Bel Automne and Eau de Senteur Joyeux Été—both still sold in 1962.
By 1952, Lancôme launched Eau de Senteur Grâces du Printemps, another cologne in the seasonal line, and also introduced Envol. In 1955, Seul Trésor—the American-market name for Trésor—was released, lasting until 1965, described as an oriental perfume. In 1957 came Flèches d’Or, available until 1968. The final cologne in this period, Eau de Senteur Fêtes de l’Hiver, launched in 1959 and was sold until 1965.
The later 1960s brought some of Lancôme’s most enduring modern fragrances. Climat (1967) remained in production until 1981, while Balafré (1968) was produced until 1996. The decade closed with the launch of Ô de Lancôme in 1969, a crisp, green citrus chypre that has remained a defining scent for the brand.
These design and labeling details, combined with knowledge of fragrance release dates, make it possible to identify and place a pre-1970 Lancôme perfume in its historical context.
1970s Onwards:
By 1970, cosmetic companies, including Lancôme, had begun stamping batch codes—typically four digits—in colored ink on the base of bottles and boxes. These codes identified the production year and month. Later, many brands moved to engraving batch codes directly into the glass, a practice seen in houses such as Chanel, Dior, and Thierry Mugler.
Dating Lancôme fragrances can be straightforward if you know what to look for. Since 1978, most Lancôme products feature a copyright date printed on the box. When paired with the batch code, this information can make identification much easier.
There are also additional packaging clues that help narrow down the production period. From the 1970s onward, there are several labeling and packaging details that can help you date a Lancôme fragrance. One key indicator is the presence of the estimated sign (often called the e-sign) placed next to the volume statement. This mark, introduced in 1976, is used on pre-packed goods in Europe to indicate that the product has been filled in accordance with European Union directives.
Another early clue from this era is the safety warning: “Warning—Use only as directed. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents can be harmful or fatal.” This text was approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration in 1975 and can be found on some perfume packaging from that time onward.
By 1978–1979, French-made perfumes—including Lancôme—began displaying the letters EMB followed by a five-digit code on their boxes. This code remained in use well into the 1990s and even beyond. The EMB marking can help narrow down the production era:
- No EMB code: before 1978–1979.
- EMB code but no barcode: 1980s.
- Barcode present (with or without EMB code): after 1989–1990.
EAN barcodes began appearing on perfume boxes in 1989, marking the start of the 1990s era. From 1992 onward, another common symbol is the Green Dot, signifying participation in European recycling programs.
The Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, first enacted in the U.S. in 1966, required consumer product labels to clearly state the product identity, the name and location of the manufacturer, and the net contents. Beginning in 1994, this law required that the contents be stated in both metric and U.S. customary units, meaning that U.S.-marketed perfumes after this date will display dual measurements.
Ingredient labeling also evolved significantly. Between 1998 and 2003, perfume boxes began showing short ingredient lists, often limited to water, alcohol, and fragrance. Before this, ingredients were minimal or not listed at all. In 2005, a longer ingredient list became standard, likely due to updated IFRA (International Fragrance Association) guidelines. By 2010, even more detailed and complex ingredient lists appeared, reflecting further regulatory changes.
Two additional packaging symbols were introduced in the mid-2000s. The Period After Opening (PAO) symbol—an image of an open jar marked with a number of months—indicates how long a product remains usable after being opened. This began appearing in 2005. Around the same time, the refer to insert symbol, showing a hand pointing to a book, was introduced. This indicates that further product information, such as full ingredient listings or instructions, is contained in a leaflet or booklet inside the packaging—particularly useful for small containers with limited label space.
Key Lancôme Fragrance Releases from the 1970s to the Late 1990s:
The 1970s through the 1990s marked an important era of innovation and expansion for Lancôme’s fragrance portfolio, reflecting evolving tastes and global marketing strategies. In 1971, Sikkim debuted, followed by two color variations of Balafré in 1974—Balafré Vert and Balafré Brun (both still sold in 1980). The Arômes et Moi collection launched in 1977, offering several variations including La Passion, Le Charme, and Le Rêve. That same year, the Balafré Internationale fragrance was introduced, further diversifying the Balafré line.
In 1978, Magie Noire arrived, becoming one of Lancôme’s iconic perfumes of the era. The 1980s saw notable launches such as Trophée in 1982, Rêve de Singapour (created specifically for Singapore Airlines) in 1984, and Sagamore in 1985 (still sold in 1995). The decade also featured Ô de Lancôme Intense in 1986 and Programme Homme Cologne in 1987, showcasing Lancôme’s focus on both women’s and men’s fragrances.
The 1990s began with a significant reformulation and relaunch of Trésor in 1990, one of Lancôme’s most enduring and successful fragrances. This decade also introduced Poéme in 1995 and O pour Homme in 1996, which further established the brand’s presence in both feminine and masculine markets. Toward the late 1990s, Lancôme embraced a modern and youthful approach with fragrances like Chrysalide Now Or Never (1998), Rouge and Rouge Now or Never (1998), Aroma Tonic (1999), Ô Oui! (1999), and a series of floral-themed scents—2000 et Une Rose, 2000 et Une Nuit, and 2000 Et Une Folies—all released in 1999.
These releases illustrate Lancôme’s dynamic evolution in fragrance design, packaging, and marketing, which is reflected in the subtle changes in bottle markings and labels that help collectors and historians date bottles from this period.
Lancôme Fragrance Releases from 2000 to 2025:
Miracle’s success inspired numerous flankers and variations, including Miracle pour Homme (2001), Miracle Intense (2002), Miracle L’Aquatonic (2003), and Miracle Forever (2006), showcasing Lancôme’s mastery of reinventing classics. The brand also expanded its offerings with Attraction (2003) and its variations, as well as Hypnôse in 2005, which marked a new chapter in Lancôme’s olfactory portfolio. Reformulations and relaunches of heritage scents like Climat (2005), Tropiques (2006), and Magie Noire (2007) reflected a respect for tradition paired with contemporary tastes.
The late 2000s introduced diverse launches such as Cyclades (2008), Magnifique (2008), and several versions of Hypnôse and Trésor, including Hypnôse Homme (2007) and Trésor Elixir (2007). Into the 2010s, the Trésor line continued to expand with limited editions and new variants like Trésor Diamant Noir (2010) and Trésor Midnight Rose (2011). In 2012, Lancôme unveiled La Vie Est Belle, a fragrance that would become a modern classic, spawning numerous editions and limited releases through the decade, including La Vie Est Belle Glitter (2013) and La Vie Est Belle L’Absolu (2014).
The Maison Lancôme collection, launched mid-2010s, brought artisanal craftsmanship and unique compositions such as Jasmins Marzipane (2016) and Oud Bouquet (2016), emphasizing niche perfume trends. The late 2010s and early 2020s featured ongoing evolution of core lines and new releases like Idôle (2019) and La Nuit Trésor editions, alongside creative collaborations and artistic limited editions.
Most recently, from 2023 to 2025, Lancôme continues to innovate with fresh launches including La Vie Est Belle Iris Absolu (2023), Idôle Power (2024), and a variety of Absolue line fragrances exploring rose-themed compositions. The brand also introduced Forbidden Rose and new interpretations of La Nuit Trésor and La Vie Est Belle, reflecting a blend of timeless elegance and modern expression.
This rich timeline of fragrance releases, paired with evolving packaging, labeling, and regulatory markings, provides invaluable context for dating Lancôme perfumes from the turn of the century to the present.
Batch Codes:
However, as is often the case in manufacturing, old and new packaging styles were sometimes used simultaneously for several years. For collectors seeking truly vintage examples, the most reliable method is to check the batch number.
Lancôme batch codes are especially useful once you understand the system. While there are no official company statements confirming these details, collectors have been able to establish a reliable dating method based on the second digit from the left in the batch code.
Lancôme Batch Code Guide
- 1982 = CAxx
- 1983 = CBxx
- 1984 = CCxx
- 1985 = CDxx
- 1986 = CExx
- 1987 = CFxx
- 1988 = CGxx
- 1989 = CHxx
(Barcode introduced in 1990)
- 1990 = CJxx
- 1991 = CKxx
- 1992 = CLxx
(Shift to 5-digit codes)
- 1993 = CMxxx or UMxxx
- 1994 = CNxxx or UNxxx
- 1995 = CPxxx or UPxxx
- 1996 = CRxxx or URxxx
- 1997 = CSxxx or USxxx
- 1998 = CTxxx or UTxxx
- 1999 = CUxxx or UUxxx
(Switch from “C” to “U”)
- 2000 = UVxxx
- 2001 = UWxxx
- 2002 = UXxxx
- 2003 = UYxxx
- 2004 = UAxxx
(Long ingredient list begins appearing on boxes)
- 2005 = UBxxx
- 2006 = UCxxx
- 2007 = UDxxx
- 2008 = 38Exxx
- 2009 = 38Fxxx
- 2010 = 38Gxxx
- 2011 = 38Hxxx
- 2012 = 38Jxxx
- 2013 = 38Kxxx
- 2014 = 38Lxxx
- 2015 = 38M
- 2016 = 38N
- 2017 = 38P
- 2018 = 38R
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