Trésor by Lancôme was originally launched in 1942 in France, though it would not reach the American market until about 1950. The name, “Trésor,” is French for “treasure” and is pronounced in layman’s terms as tray-zor. Armand Petitjean’s choice of name evokes images of precious objects, hidden gems, and the emotional warmth of something cherished. It conjures a sense of intimacy, luxury, and delight—qualities that perfectly mirror the carefully constructed richness of the fragrance itself. To a woman of the early 1940s, during the height of wartime austerity and social upheaval, a perfume named Trésor would have suggested a private indulgence, a little jewel of elegance and comfort amidst the uncertainties of daily life.
The fragrance is classified as a semi-oriental floral, a style that blends warm, resinous, and slightly exotic base notes with luminous, feminine florals. Trésor opens with the precious warmth of woods—notes carefully chosen to feel sophisticated yet approachable. The subtle scent of fine leather adds a textural, slightly animalic depth, grounding the composition in understated opulence. A light whisper of incense introduces a spiritual, almost meditative quality, while civet contributes a gentle, musky warmth that enhances the lingering floral notes. The heart of the perfume is a bouquet of Ispahan roses and Chinese gardenias, whose sweet, velvety petals are amplified by a delicate, fruity je ne sais quoi, a subtle interplay of natural and synthetic notes that lend a luminous, slightly modern clarity to the otherwise opulent blend.
In the context of the 1940s fragrance market, Trésor was both familiar and daring. Semi-oriental florals were emerging as luxurious, statement-making scents, balancing classical European floral compositions with warmer, exotic, and sensual undertones. While other brands offered florals with single or lighter woody supports, Trésor’s combination of woods, leather, incense, and civet gave it a multi-layered depth that felt both modern and timeless. For contemporary women, the scent of Trésor would have been interpreted as an elegant, secret indulgence—a fragrance that could transform everyday moments into something treasured, echoing its very name. Its blend of rich florals, warm woods, and exotic nuances positioned it as a perfume that was at once comforting, sophisticated, and subtly adventurous, making it a distinctive addition to the postwar perfumery landscape.
Original Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Tresor by Lancome is classified as a semi-oriental floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Paraguayan petitgrain. Sicilian neroli, citral, Moroccan rose, Alpine lilac, terpineol, Dutch lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, green leaves accord, Georgia peach and apricot
- Middle notes: Chinese gardenia, Ispahan roses, Egyptian jasmine, benzyl salicylate, French carnation, Zanzibar cloves, Jamaican nutmeg, Russian coriander, isoeugenol, Tunisian orange blossom, Manila ylang ylang oil, Veronese orris butter, ionones
- Base notes: leather, Omani frankincense, Somali opoponax, Abyssinian civet, Balkans oakmoss, Haitian vetiver, Seychelles patchouli, Spanish labdanum, Sumatran styrax, Peru balsam, South American tolu balsam, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Madagascar vanilla, vanillin, Atlas cedar, ambergris and Tibetan musk, musk ketones
"Eau parfumée a Tresor de Lancome: The aroma of precious woods blends here with the fine scent of leather, the light intoxication of incense, the warm support of civet, and a delicately fruity je ne sais quoi, to amplify the sweet breath of a bouquet of Ispahan roses and Chinese gardenias. One thinks of a golden princess dressed in Paris. Having been lotioned with perfumed water in this way, her frail body adds a pompous sensuality in the folds of the dress, draped for some night party."
Scent Profile:
Trésor by Lancôme unfolds like a treasure chest of luxurious aromas, an intricate semi-oriental floral fragrance that weaves together sparkling citrus, opulent florals, and warm, resinous woods and musks.
The opening is immediately luminous and radiant. Aldehydes provide a sparkling, airy lift, reminiscent of the crisp light at dawn. Calabrian bergamot lends a bright, tangy citrus note with subtle bitter nuances, while Paraguayan petitgrain, distilled from bitter orange leaves, adds a fresh green-woody brightness that complements the citrus. Sicilian neroli deepens this bouquet with a soft, radiant orange blossom aroma, delicate yet exuberant. The citral component emphasizes a clean, sparkling citrus nuance, harmonizing perfectly with the Moroccan rose, whose petals are rich and velvety, slightly fruit-infused, and instantly recognizable for its soft, romantic elegance. Alpine lilac brings a subtle powdery freshness, while terpineol reinforces the lilac’s floral sweetness. The addition of Dutch lily-of-the-valley and a green leaves accord evokes dewy spring mornings, full of crisp verdant energy, softened by the juicy, sun-ripened scent of Georgia peach and apricot. Hydroxycitronellal subtly heightens the freshness, providing a clean, luminous lift to the floral-green citrus medley.
The heart of Trésor blossoms with an opulent, velvety richness. Chinese gardenia exudes creamy, soft florality with a slightly green undertone, while the legendary Ispahan roses from Iran—known for their deep, multi-dimensional aroma—add a full-bodied, intensely romantic note that is both powdery and sensuous. Egyptian jasmine adds honeyed, indolic depth, creating a living, breathing bouquet. Benzyl salicylate enhances the natural florals with a gentle sweet warmth, rounding off their sharp edges. The spicier middle notes like Zanzibar cloves, Jamaican nutmeg, and Russian coriander add warmth and subtle piquancy, perfectly balanced with the slightly smoky, carnation-like character of French carnation and isoeugenol, which gives the flowers a warm, spicy resonance. Tunisian orange blossom adds another luminous floral facet, while Manila ylang ylang oil provides creamy, tropical florals that lift the bouquet with gentle sweetness. Veronese orris butter adds powdery, iris-like elegance, while ionones introduce a soft violet nuance that enhances the overall complexity and sophistication of the floral heart.
The base is a rich tapestry of woods, resins, and musks, imparting warmth, sensuality, and longevity. Leather opens the drydown with a soft, luxurious animalic quality, mingling with the deep resinous richness of Omani frankincense, Somali opoponax, Spanish labdanum, Sumatran styrax, Peru balsam, and South American tolu balsam. These resins provide sticky, sweet, and smoky layers, reminiscent of a warm, glowing hearth. Abyssinian civet, ambergris, and Tibetan musk offer a sophisticated animalic foundation, rounded and modernized by the inclusion of musk ketones for clarity and projection. Balkans oakmoss lends a cool, earthy, forest-like depth, while Haitian vetiver, Seychelles patchouli, and Mysore sandalwood add textured, creamy, and woody layers. Atlas cedar provides dry, aromatic structure, and Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Madagascar vanilla, and vanillin bring sweet, balsamic warmth, enhancing the gourmand aspects of the fragrance without overwhelming its floral elegance.
Trésor is ultimately a perfume of contrasts: sparkling freshness meets velvety florals, warm resins mingle with soft woods, and animalic depth balances fruity sweetness. Every ingredient, whether sourced from renowned locales like Calabrian bergamot or Ispahan roses, or enhanced by synthetics such as hydroxycitronellal, benzyl salicylate, ionones, vanillin, and musk ketones, plays a precise role—building a fragrance that is as timeless, luxurious, and enchanting as its very name suggests.
Bottles:
Le Diamant Bottles:
Trésor’s parfum was elegantly presented in a flacon that was nothing short of a miniature work of art. Known as “Le Diamant”, the bottle was shaped like an inverted pyramid, brilliantly faceted to resemble a gleaming diamond. Designed by the talented Georges Delhomme, the flacon was crafted with 38 meticulously cut facets that captured and reflected light from every angle, producing a radiant, jewel-like effect. The design was intentionally made to fit comfortably in the hand, allowing the user to feel the weight and solidity of the flacon as if holding a precious gem.
The precision required to cut each facet was extraordinary, with only six flacons completed in a single day. This painstaking process was necessary to ensure perfect symmetry, optical brilliance, and flawless edges—any minor error could ruin the visual effect, highlighting why such bottles were both rare and luxurious.
Available in 1 oz and 2 oz sizes, the Le Diamant flacons were positioned as deluxe, collectible objects, often promoted during the holiday season to emphasize their opulent, gift-worthy appeal. The 1 ounce size is big as a 118,000 carat diamond. In 1953, the 1 oz bottle retailed for $40 and the 2 oz for $70, prices that underscored the craftsmanship and prestige of both the fragrance and its presentation. The combination of exquisite design, refined proportions, and the dazzling interplay of light across the cut surfaces made Trésor’s flacon a signature example of mid-century French luxury perfumery.
"Lancome's new "Tresor," just landed from France, is treasured in a bottle like a great dark diamond."
Flacon de Sac - La Goutte d’Eau – Teardrop Flacon, c. 1952
In 1952, Lancôme introduced La Goutte d’Eau, an exquisite miniature purse perfume flacon whose name—French for “the teardrop”—aptly describes its elegant, fluid silhouette. Designed by Georges Delhomme, Lancôme’s artistic director and frequent collaborator with master glassmakers, the flacon was most likely produced by Verreries de Bresle, the celebrated glassworks responsible for much of Lancôme’s mid-century bottle production. Crafted to hold extrait de parfum, the most concentrated form of fragrance, each teardrop contained just over 0.25 oz (1/5 fl. oz) of Lancôme’s signature scents such as Magie, Peut-Être, and Trésor. Its shape drew inspiration from antique Venetian glass jewelry, favoring softly rounded, fluid forms, while the clear, polished crystal surface gleamed with a refined brilliance, combining artistry, craftsmanship, and functional elegance in a truly collectible miniature presentation.
Borne Carrée (Jasmine) Standard Bottle:
Lancôme’s Tresor was presented in the house’s very first standard perfume bottle, the Borne Carrée—now commonly known as the Flacon Jasmin—a refined design introduced at the brand’s launch in 1934. Created by Georges Delhomme, Lancôme’s first artistic director, this flacon exemplifies timeless elegance with its cut and polished colorless crystal, square flat body softened by gentle curves and rounded edges, and a clear glass stopper intricately molded with jasmine blossoms—a symbol of beauty and refinement. Often mistaken for Lalique’s work, these stoppers were Delhomme’s original creation, produced mainly by Verreries Le Bresle. The understated yet luxurious Flacon Jasmin became Lancôme’s signature bottle from the 1930s through the 1960s, housing fragrances like Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Magie. Available in multiple sizes and two main shapes—a standard square and a rarer tall, narrow form—it set the foundation for later iconic bottles such as the Pagode and the Flacon Classique, reflecting Lancôme’s enduring commitment to elegant, harmonious design.
The flacon was available in several sizes—2 oz (4"), 1 oz (3.5"), 0.5 oz (3"), and 0.25 oz (2.75")—to accommodate different price points and gifting occasions, and it appeared in two main forms: the familiar standard square version and a rarer tall, narrow variant.
"Pagode" Standard Bottle:
Tresor was also presented in Lancôme’s Pagode flacon, one of the house’s most elegant and enduring designs, used for several of its prestige fragrances, including Magie. Crafted from clear, colorless glass, the Pagode flacon is distinguished by its gently curved silhouette, which subtly softens the rectangular outline and imparts a refined, tactile quality. This curvature, combined with harmonious proportions and softened edges, conveys an understated luxury that contrasts with the stark, angular lines of modernist bottle design. Topped with a concave, rectangular glass stopper that mirrors the gentle curve of the body, the bottle achieves a sleek balance between fluidity and symmetry. Reserved for parfum concentrations, the Pagode flacon was a vessel for Lancôme’s most concentrated and prestigious offerings, transforming the act of fragrance presentation into an art form in its own right.
Le Coeur de Cristal – Crystal Heart Bottle, 1950s:
The Le Coeur de Cristal flacon—French for “crystal heart”—was a refined, poetic design by Georges Delhomme for Lancôme in the 1950s. Crafted in pressed glass, the bottle is colorless with partial frosting, offering a delicate balance between transparency and a soft, velvety texture. Its abstract heart shape is gently organic rather than literal, with rounded shoulders that evoke warmth and intimacy without veering into sentimentality.
From above, the flacon reveals a rectangular cross-section, introducing subtle geometric structure to its fluid form. A neatly framed label contrasts against the frosted surface, allowing the fragrance name to stand out without dominating the design. Topping the bottle is a small, solid brass cap, adding a warm metallic accent and reinforcing the house’s refined luxury. Standing approximately 8 cm (just over 3 inches) tall, the bottle was perfectly scaled for vanity display or travel.
Like Lancôme’s “Nuages” bottle, Le Coeur de Cristal was versatile, housing multiple fragrances throughout the 1950s. Delhomme’s design language—blending emotional softness with structural clarity—made the bottle adaptable while maintaining visual cohesion across the brand. The flacon embodies postwar French elegance: understated, modern, intimate, and unmistakably luxurious.
Nuages – Clouds Flacon, c. 1955:
In 1955, Lancôme introduced a new presentation for its Magie perfume designed to suit the jet-setting, style-conscious woman of the mid-20th century. This “Avion Presentation” reflected the era’s fascination with air travel, combining modern practicality with elegance. The centerpiece of this line was the Nuages flacon—French for “clouds”—whose design visually echoed its poetic name. The bottle was used for other Lancome fragrances.
Crafted from clear crystal, the Nuages bottle features deeply acid-etched frosted swirls that mimic drifting clouds. The patterns catch and diffuse light, giving the impression of vapor suspended within the glass, while the transparent crystal allows the perfume itself to glimmer like mist. Cylindrical, smooth, and symmetrical, the bottle blends functionality with grace: it is compact, durable, and easy to handle, yet striking enough to enhance any dressing table.
Designed by Georges Delhomme, the flacon was produced in pressed glass, enabling precise reproduction of the intricate cloud motifs at scale without compromising clarity. The clear, colorless glass highlights the perfume inside, emphasizing purity and modernity, while the gilded cap adds a subtle touch of luxury, anchoring the design firmly within Lancôme’s tradition of refined French elegance. The Nuages flacon perfectly embodies the mid-century balance of practicality, artistic detail, and sophisticated style.
Flacon de Sac - La Dragonne Perfume Bottle, c. 1955
In 1955, Lancôme released a limited-edition holiday perfume presentation known as La Dragonne. The term dragonne in French refers to a wrist strap or loop, traditionally used to secure small objects, evoking elegance and practicality. The bottle itself was crafted from colorless pressed glass in the form of a delicate crystal prism, reminiscent of a hanging chandelier ornament. Its faceted surfaces captured and reflected light, creating the illusion of finely cut crystal. A gilded cap topped the flacon, through which a decorative ribbon looped, allowing the bottle to be suspended or worn like a jewel—combining function with festive sophistication.
Measuring just 4.75 inches in length, La Dragonne was compact, elegant, and highly ornamental, making it ideal for seasonal gifting. While it housed various Lancôme fragrances, the bottle became closely associated with holiday releases and special occasions. Today, its combination of refined simplicity, play of light, and wearable design makes La Dragonne a rare and highly collectible example of mid-century French perfume artistry.
Eau Parfumee:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Introduced in 1955, Seul Trésor was the American market name for Lancôme’s Trésor, a renaming intended to appeal specifically to U.S. consumers while preserving the prestige and identity of the original French fragrance. Although the name differed, both the scent and its luxurious presentation remained true to the French release, maintaining its refined character and elegant packaging. Archival advertisements and retail listings confirm that Seul Trésor was still available in the United States at least through 1965, demonstrating both its steady popularity and Lancôme’s strategic approach to international branding.
The original Trésor, first launched in 1942 and introduced to the U.S. in 1952, was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains unknown. It nonetheless maintained a strong presence for decades, with documented sales continuing as late as 1969. This enduring popularity was rooted in its sophisticated semi-oriental floral composition, a harmonious blend of precious woods, leather, civet, incense, and opulent florals such as Ispahan roses and Chinese gardenias.
Its ability to remain in production and in demand for so many years suggests that Trésor held a special place in Lancôme’s fragrance lineup. The scent successfully bridged the elegance of wartime Europe with the evolving tastes of the postwar era, allowing it to resonate with multiple generations of perfume enthusiasts. Its rich, timeless character ensured that even as new perfumes were introduced, Trésor continued to be cherished as a symbol of luxury and refinement.
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