Fleches (1938)

Flèches by Lancôme was launched in 1938, during an era marked by both artistic innovation and looming global tensions. The name Flèches, French for “arrows,” carries rich symbolic meaning, evoking the image of Cupid’s arrows of love—swift, piercing, and full of romantic promise. Pronounced roughly as "flehsh" in English, the word conjures images of passion, desire, and the sudden, often unpredictable nature of love. It captures a timeless allure that would have resonated deeply with women of the late 1930s, a period when elegance and emotion intertwined closely in fashion and culture.

The late 1930s was a complex moment in history, a time often described as the interwar period or the tail end of the Art Deco era, transitioning toward more restrained wartime aesthetics. Women’s fashions emphasized femininity with structured silhouettes and luxurious fabrics, but beneath this elegance was an undercurrent of uncertainty due to the geopolitical climate. In this context, Flèches offered a sensory escape—an olfactory metaphor for love’s hopeful, vibrant energy amidst the tensions of the time. For the sophisticated woman of 1938, a perfume named Flèches suggested not only romance but also a bold statement of modern femininity and emotional complexity.

Created by Armand Petitjean, Flèches is classified as a green chypre—a fragrance family known for its fresh, mossy, and woody character, balanced with a refined sophistication. Lancôme described it as evoking “the fresh and hidden scents of the hot-house,” where green leaves, moss, and rich plants mingle with the aromas of rare blooms. This imagery reflects the perfume’s layered complexity: a subtle yet grand style, with contrasts that highlight its modernity. The scent blends creamy vanilla with a spicy mixture of herbs, mosses, and leaves, conjuring the freshness of wet green foliage intertwined with floral and woody notes. Suitable primarily for evening wear, Flèches offers a sophisticated and somewhat mysterious aura, balancing natural freshness with a sensual depth.

Within the fragrance landscape of the late 1930s, Flèches was both a continuation and a refinement of popular trends. The chypre family was well-established by this time, with many perfumers exploring its possibilities. However, Flèches stood out by emphasizing green, leafy freshness combined with a creamy softness—offering a more nuanced and modern interpretation compared to heavier or more traditional chypres. This made it appealing to women who sought a fragrance that was elegant yet distinctively contemporary, capturing the complexities of love and femininity in an uncertain era.

The earliest descriptions of Flèches by Lancôme paint it as both elegant and potent, a fragrance that combined delicacy with precision—much like its namesake, the arrow. In Le Petit Parisien in 1941, Flèches was introduced as a perfume that “bursts into heady and powerful sweetness” yet “sparkles in fresh and seductive scents.” The metaphor is telling—arrows are swift, straight, and purposeful, and here the idea translates into a fragrance that makes its impact quickly but lingers with sophistication. The “elegance and strength” attributed to the scent aligned perfectly with the Lancôme vision of the time: perfumes that embodied both refinement and lasting presence.

By 1945, in a post-war Lancôme perfume catalog, Flèches was more poetically positioned as an olfactory stroll through a lush, secret greenhouse. Its freshness came from green leaves, mosses, and succulent plants—cool, damp, and brimming with life—while rare flowers rose above this verdant base to claim dominance. This was a world of cultivated beauty, where nature’s wildness was tempered by the controlled environment of the greenhouse, much as perfumery itself balances raw natural ingredients with human artistry.

In L’Amour de l’Art (1950), the imagery sharpened. Flèches was imagined as slender arrows piercing the heart of the rarest flowers, which bloomed not in the wild, but in a ceremonial evening’s warmth, safe beneath glass. This imagery reinforced the fragrance’s identity as something both intimate and opulent, meant for special occasions, and steeped in cultivated sophistication.

By 1954, Combat offered perhaps the most intricate description of Flèches’ structure and sensation. Here, the “vanilla cuddliness” of heliotrope—a creamy, almond-powdered softness—was contrasted with bright, dart-like accents of jasmine, daffodil, acacia, and vetiver. These floral and green arrows shot forth from a resinous, woody base, enriched with coriander’s herbal spice, coumarin’s hay-like warmth, and musk’s sensual depth. This complex layering gave the fragrance a dual character—civilized countryside, where rustic elements were refined and tailored for sophistication. The text suggested that in hot weather, the perfume could be diluted into an eau parfumée, creating a lighter aromatic veil, while in full strength, it enclosed the wearer “in a nonchalantly voluptuous aromatic net.”

Taken together, these period descriptions portray Flèches as a masterfully balanced composition—at once fresh, floral, spicy, green, and sweet—designed to strike with precision, seduce with elegance, and envelop with lasting allure. It was a cultivated beauty, much like the greenhouse flowers it evoked: rare, controlled, and unforgettable.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fleches by Lancome is classified as a green chypre fragrance for women with creamy notes of vanilla. A spicy mixture of herbs, mosses and leaves. It suggests the freshness of wet green leaves, flowers and woods and was suitable for evening.  

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Indian citron, citral, Sicilian bitter orange, Argentinean lemon verbena, Dutch daffodil, Parma violet leaf, Iranian galbanum, Provencal lavender, Hungarian clary sage, Moroccan acacia, Russian coriander 
• Middle notes: Alpine lilac, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, Grasse jasmine absolute, Grasse rose absolute, Bourbon geranium, Comoros ylang ylang oil, French carnation, isoeugenol, benzyl salicylate, Szechuan cinnamon, Jamaican nutmeg, Mexican anise, Peruvian heliotrope, heliotropin, Tuscan violet, Florentine orris, ionones
• Base notes: Atlas cedar, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Siam benzoin, Maltese labdanum, ambergris, Java vetiver,  Indonesian patchouli, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Tonkin musk

 

Scent Profile:

Imagine unfolding Fleches by Lancôme, a green chypre masterpiece that unfolds like a fresh garden after a rainstorm, layered with creamy vanilla and a tapestry of spicy herbs, mosses, and woods—crafted to captivate the evening air with elegance and intrigue.

At first encounter, the top notes open with a vibrant burst of sparkling aldehydes, lending a luminous, effervescent quality that lifts the composition with a clean, slightly soapy brightness—these synthetic molecules add crispness and enhance the natural citrus, giving the fragrance an airy yet sophisticated veil. The Calabrian bergamot, hailing from Italy’s sun-kissed southern coast, brings a unique brightness and a slightly floral citrus aroma prized for its balance of sharpness and sweetness. It is complemented by Sicilian bitter orange, with its crisp, zesty bitterness, and the fresh, green citrus nuance of Indian citron, whose rarity adds an exotic twist. The citral—an aroma chemical that evokes lemony freshness—further sharpens these citrus accords. 

Argentinean lemon verbena contributes a herbaceous, lemony-green brightness, distinct for its aromatic clarity and sunny warmth, while the crisp, slightly metallic facet of Parma violet leaf adds a soft green powderiness, evoking crushed leaves. The Dutch daffodil adds subtle floral sweetness, while the resinous, pine-like green of Iranian galbanum introduces a sharp, resinous earthiness, characteristic of the Middle Eastern variety’s intense freshness. The Provencal lavender imparts a classic aromatic herbal note, clean and calming, softened by the earthy, slightly musky Hungarian clary sage. The delicate sweetness of Moroccan acacia and the warm, spicy, and slightly woody nuances of Russian coriander complete this vibrant green opening, each ingredient bringing its regional character—acacia’s gentle honeyed notes and coriander’s fresh spice—layering complexity and depth.

As the heart unfolds, the fragrance softens and blooms with lush floral and spicy accords. The Alpine lilac and lily of the valley create a fresh, dewy floral mist, pure and airy, evoking a mountain spring. Hydroxycitronellal, a synthetic note with a fresh, floral, and slightly citrus nuance, enhances the heart’s luminous quality, blending seamlessly with the natural blooms. The richness of Grasse jasmine absolute and Grasse rose absolute—products of the famed French perfume region—introduce an intoxicating, velvety floral warmth, their nuanced sweetness deepened by the rosy-fresh, minty-herbal character of Bourbon geranium. 

The tropical and creamy floral of Comoros ylang ylang oil adds sensuality, while French carnation lends a spicy, clove-like warmth. The heart spices—Szechuan cinnamon and Jamaican nutmeg—bring a nuanced, aromatic warmth, contrasted by the licorice-like sharpness of Mexican anise. The sweet, powdery softness of Peruvian heliotrope and its synthetic counterpart heliotropin amplify the gourmand facets, while the violet nuances from Tuscan violet and the powdery, woody facets of Florentine orris and ionones add a refined, velvety elegance. Isoeugenol and benzyl salicylate, two aroma chemicals, provide spicy floral warmth and gentle balsamic sweetness, balancing the natural ingredients with a polished glow.

The dry-down reveals a rich, earthy, and creamy base that grounds the fragrance in timeless chypre tradition. The dry, aromatic resinous notes of Maltese labdanum—known for its rich, leathery amber scent—merge with the sweet balsamic warmth of Siam benzoin, while the smooth, powdery, and woody qualities of Florentine orris continue to lend sophistication. The warm, creamy richness of Mexican vanilla and vanillin (a key synthetic component that amplifies and cleans up the natural vanilla) entwine beautifully with the sweet, nutty nuances of Venezuelan tonka bean and the dry, earthy depth of Indonesian patchouli. 

The base woods—Atlas cedar, prized for its clean, dry, aromatic cedarwood note; Mysore sandalwood, renowned for its soft, milky, and creamy profile; and Java vetiver, with its smoky, grassy earthiness—build a solid yet elegant foundation. The Yugoslavian oakmoss brings a quintessential chypre mossy dampness and forest floor aroma, while the rare and precious ambergris adds a subtle marine saltiness and animalic warmth. The sensuality deepens with Tonkin musk, a velvety animalic base note enhancing longevity and warmth.

Each ingredient—whether a prized natural extract from renowned terroirs like Grasse, Mysore, or Calabrial, or a refined synthetic aroma chemical—plays a vital role in weaving Fleches’ elegant tapestry. The synthetics like aldehydes, hydroxycitronellal, ionones, vanillin, and heliotropin serve to amplify the natural elements, ensuring clarity, longevity, and a modern freshness that was innovative in its era, while the natural oils and absolutes contribute authentic complexity and depth. Fleches embodies a modern chypre with a fresh, green, floral, spicy heart and a creamy, woody, animalic base—perfectly capturing the sophistication of 1930s luxury perfumery.

Bottle:

Fleches Deluxe Flacon:

The deluxe flacon for Flèches is a masterwork of late 1930s French perfume presentation, embodying both precision and opulence. Designed by Georges Delhomme and produced by Verrières de la Bresle, the bottle takes the form of a flat, trapezoidal silhouette with elegantly rounded contours. The glass is softly smoked and satin-finished, its subdued translucence evoking the haze of a greenhouse where Flèches’ green and floral heart might bloom. Running down the center of each face is a broad vertical band, lavishly gilded in fine gold leaf, which draws the eye upward to merge seamlessly with the striking arrowhead-shaped stopper — a direct visual reference to the perfume’s name. This stopper, also gilded, transforms the bottle into a sculptural symbol of elegance and precision, much like the arrow that inspired it.

The presentation was no less impressive. The édition de luxe came housed in a rectangular case of monochrome leather or fine skin, lined with a gilded interior that shimmered when the box was opened. The exterior bore a silver-plated metal emblem of the perfume — the arrow motif — inset into the lid, a tactile crest that reinforced the identity of the fragrance before the bottle was even revealed. The interior was thoughtfully designed with two compartments, one removable, each sheathed in the same fine skin, emphasizing both luxury and practicality.

Standing at 15 to 15.5 cm in height, the deluxe flacon was available in two sizes, 1 oz and 3 oz, allowing customers to experience Flèches either as a precious personal treasure or a more generous indulgence. The satin-smoked glass, golden embellishment, and sharply pointed stopper combined to create a sense of restrained yet undeniable glamour — the kind of bottle meant to sit on a dressing table as a statement piece as much as a vessel for perfume. In every detail, from the gilded stripe to the arrowhead finial, Delhomme’s design perfectly encapsulated the fragrance’s duality: the softness of green leaves and vanilla tempered by the elegance and strength of its name.

 

 

During the Second World War, luxury perfume presentation faced severe material restrictions, and the Flèches deluxe flacon was no exception. The original design called for an elegant smoked-green glass, a color that was both sophisticated and distinctive. However, by the early 1940s, sourcing the specific minerals and metallic oxides needed to produce such glass became increasingly difficult. These substances were often imported, expensive, and in some cases diverted to the war effort. As a result, Lancôme could no longer obtain the green, smoked glass flacons from Verrières de la Bresle and was forced to adapt, producing a wartime version in colorless, frosted glass. This variant was made both with and without the gold enamel detailing that normally accentuated the vertical band and stopper, depending on the availability of decorative materials at the time.

The original green smoked glass would likely have been achieved by adding small quantities of metallic compounds to the molten glass during production. The most common coloring agents for green glass in the 1930s were chromium oxide and iron oxide; copper oxide was also used for certain green tints. In addition, the “smoked” or grayish undertone could be created by introducing manganese dioxide or by using controlled amounts of carbon in the firing process. Many of these elements — especially chromium, manganese, and copper — were critical to wartime manufacturing. Chromium, for example, was in high demand for producing stainless steel and other corrosion-resistant alloys used in military vehicles, weaponry, and aircraft. Manganese was needed for steel production and as an oxidizing agent in various industrial processes. Copper was essential for electrical wiring, shell casings, and other military hardware.

Because these minerals were strategically important and subject to strict allocation or embargoes during wartime, glassmakers had to reserve them for essential industries. Luxury perfumery, considered non-essential, was relegated to whatever materials could be sourced domestically and without military application. This explains why Lancôme’s wartime Flèches flacon, though still elegant, was stripped of its original smoked-green depth and replaced with simpler colorless frosted glass. Today, these wartime editions are regarded as somewhat rarer than their pre-war green counterparts, not only because fewer were produced but also because they represent a fleeting moment when the artistry of perfume packaging had to bend to the realities of global conflict. Edition dating from the 1939–1945 wartime period.

 

Borne Carrée (Jasmine) Standard Bottle:

Lancôme’s Fleches was presented in the house’s very first standard perfume bottle, the Borne Carrée—now commonly known as the Flacon Jasmin—a refined design introduced at the brand’s launch in 1934. Created by Georges Delhomme, Lancôme’s first artistic director, this flacon exemplifies timeless elegance with its cut and polished colorless crystal, square flat body softened by gentle curves and rounded edges, and a clear glass stopper intricately molded with jasmine blossoms—a symbol of beauty and refinement. Often mistaken for Lalique’s work, these stoppers were Delhomme’s original creation, produced mainly by Verreries Le Bresle. The understated yet luxurious Flacon Jasmin became Lancôme’s signature bottle from the 1930s through the 1960s, housing fragrances like Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Magie. Available in multiple sizes and two main shapes—a standard square and a rarer tall, narrow form—it set the foundation for later iconic bottles such as the Pagode and the Flacon Classique, reflecting Lancôme’s enduring commitment to elegant, harmonious design.

The flacon was available in several sizes—2 oz (4"), 1 oz (3.5"), 0.5 oz (3"), and 0.25 oz (2.75")—to accommodate different price points and gifting occasions, and it appeared in two main forms: the familiar standard square version and a rarer tall, narrow variant. 

Bouchon Vannerie Standard Bottle:

Tropiques was also presented in Lancôme’s Bouchon Vannerie standard flacon, a 1940s design that blends refined elegance with a touch of artisanal charm. Its most distinctive feature is the frosted glass stopper, molded in relief with an intricate basketweave pattern that captures the look and feel of handwoven wicker. This tactile detail not only provided visual interest but also evoked the traditions of French craftsmanship, where artistry lies as much in texture as in form. The clear glass body offered a simple, graceful counterpoint to the ornate stopper, allowing the golden hue of the perfume to enhance the overall presentation. Discreetly embossed “Lancôme France” on the base, the flacon carried an air of authenticity and understated prestige, marking it as the work of one of France’s most celebrated perfume houses.

The Golden Ribbon Package Perfume c1947:

The Gold Ribbon Package from 1947 was a strikingly modern presentation that reflected both elegance and practicality. The perfume was housed in a slim, narrow, columnar bottle, its form accentuated with molded strap-like lines that lent a sense of structure and refinement. The bottle was topped with a ground glass stopper, carefully polished to harmonize with the sleek contours of the flacon, giving it a finished, luxurious appearance that underscored the meticulous craftsmanship associated with Parisian perfume design.

Eau Parfumee:

Fate of the Fragrance:

During World War II, the importation of Lancôme fragrances to the United States was suspended. Popular scents such as Tropiques, Tendres Nuits, Flèches, Cuir, Conquête, Bocages, Peut-Être, and Kypre were unavailable to American customers for the duration of the conflict and did not return to U.S. shores until 1946. Their reappearance was marked by a wave of publicity that underscored both the artistry and resilience behind French perfumery during the war years.

A 1946 newspaper article described the arrival of Mme. Elsi Cramer, a Lancôme representative, who spoke candidly about American women’s perfume habits. She observed that while American women often owned multiple fragrances, they rarely sought to understand perfume compositions, floral blends, or the artistry of the packaging. Instead, their chief concern was longevity of scent — something Mme. Cramer firmly believed should not be the sole measure of a perfume’s worth. She advised that by carrying a small vial of one’s favorite fragrance and reapplying discreetly once or twice in the evening, the scent would remain fresh and “just put on,” fulfilling its intended charm.

Cramer presented Tropiques, Flèches, Cuir, Kypre, Conquête, Qui Sait (“Who Knows?”), and Bocages as the latest offerings in the line, noting that their packaging and bottles had been refined through years of careful development. She reminded customers that the formulas for these perfumes were safeguarded during the German occupation of France, making their return to the American market not merely a matter of new imports, but a testament to the perseverance of French perfumers through material shortages and wartime hardship. This history, she argued, added a deeper meaning to wearing these scents — transforming them from “sweet-smelling stuff” into symbols of endurance and artistry.

This fragrance was later discontinued, though the exact date remains unknown. It continued to be sold as late as 1961.