Kypre (1935)

Lancôme’s Kypre was launched in 1935 as part of the brand’s inaugural fragrance collection unveiled at the World’s Fair in Brussels, alongside Tendre Nuit, Bocages, Conquête, and Tropiques. The name Kypre is a stylized spelling of “Chypre,” the French word for “Cyprus,” pronounced roughly as “sheep-ruh”. This name pays homage to the island of Cyprus, historically significant in the development of the chypre fragrance family, which has been a cornerstone of perfumery since the 19th century. The word evokes images of sun-drenched Mediterranean landscapes, rugged oak forests, mossy undergrowth, and the complex interplay of earth and sea—sensory elements that perfectly mirror the rich, mossy, and woody character of the perfume itself.

The chypre genre, dating back to the late 1800s, is traditionally built on a harmonious structure of bergamot top notes, a heart of labdanum or floral accords, and a base dominated by oakmoss and patchouli. It was one of the most popular fragrance families of the 19th and early 20th centuries, with nearly every perfumery offering its own interpretation. These classic chypres relied heavily on natural ingredients such as oakmoss and labdanum, but by the early 20th century, perfumers like Armand Petitjean began incorporating synthetic aroma chemicals to enhance and modernize these traditional accords, balancing cost and consistency with creative expression.

Petitjean’s Kypre was a sophisticated reimagining of the classic chypre, presenting a deeper, more velvety profile. It layered oakmoss, musk, and jasmine in a wine-like structure, offering richness and complexity akin to a fine Burgundy vintage. Petitjean himself advised that Kypre “should be treated like a Burgundy; it needs to age in the bottle.” He described it as ideal for winter and festive occasions in Europe, but versatile enough to be worn year-round in warmer climates such as the East and South America.

The year 1935, nestled in the interwar period known for both artistic innovation and social upheaval, was a time when fashion and perfumery reflected a desire for elegance, sophistication, and subtle luxury. The World’s Fair spotlighted new technological and cultural advances, and Lancôme’s launch of Kypre tapped into the era’s fascination with modern yet timeless refinement. Women of the time, embracing the evolving role of femininity and glamour, would have related to Kypre as a statement of both classic taste and contemporary boldness—its name and scent evoking mystery, earthiness, and sophistication.

In the context of its era, Kypre was both in step with the prevailing chypre trend and distinctive in its nuanced depth and aging potential. By blending traditional mossy and woody elements with refined florals and musks, it stood out as a confident, luxurious interpretation that honored perfumery’s heritage while pointing toward modern sensibilities.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Kypre by Lancome is classified as a chypre perfume with mossy and woodsy notes. Armand Petitjean, creator of the perfume, explains it thus: "Kypre should be treated like a Burgundy; it needs to age in the bottle, like the wine. In our climate, it is more of a perfume for winter and for festivities, but in the East and in South America, it appeals in all seasons…”

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, bergamot mint, Paraguayan petitgrain bigarade, Amalfi lemon, Italian neroli, Guinea sweet orange oil, citral, Mediterranean lemon verbena, Alpine lavender, Hungarian clary sage, plum, apricot, peach 
• Middle notes: Iranian galbanum absolute, Egyptian jasmine absolute, Nossi-Be ylang ylang oil, Portuguese tuberose absolute, Bulgarian rose otto, Bourbon geranium oil, Veronese iris concrete, Florentine orris butter, Parma violet concrete, ionone, Jamaican nutmeg, Zanzibar clove, isoeugenol
• Base notes: Sudanese myrrh, Yemeni opoponax, Maltese labdanum, Peru balsam, South American tolu balsam, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Siam benzoin resin, leather, Atlas cedar, Indonesian patchouli, Java vetiver, Tyrolean oakmoss absolute, Florentine orris, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, ambrein, Indian musk ambrette, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, Canadian castoreum

 

Scent Profile:

Imagine unfolding Kypre by Lancôme as a symphony of scents, each note a vivid, sensory journey. From the very first breath, the top notes burst forth with a sparkling effervescence. Crisp aldehydes open the fragrance with a bright, clean shimmer, lifting the senses like sunlight reflecting on morning dew. This clarity is deepened by the radiant Calabrian bergamot, whose uniquely sweet, slightly spicy citrus character is prized worldwide for its purity and freshness. Intertwined with bergamot is the subtle green freshness of bergamot mint, adding a cool, herbal nuance that refreshes the air around you. The Paraguayan petitgrain bigarade brings its own bitter-citrus complexity, extracted from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, imparting a refined depth distinct from the fruit’s zest. The Amalfi lemon joins this citrus chorus with its juicy, tangy brightness, while Italian neroli adds an ethereal, floral-citrus aroma harvested from the delicate blossoms of bitter orange trees—a scent celebrated for its sparkling sweetness and calming effect.

The top’s fruity sweetness is softened by Guinea sweet orange oil, lush and juicy, while citral, a synthetic aroma chemical renowned for its clean, lemony sharpness, subtly heightens the citrus bouquet. Mediterranean lemon verbena lends a fresh, green-herbal brightness reminiscent of sun-dappled gardens, perfectly complemented by the aromatic Alpine lavender, whose cool, herbaceous floral tone adds elegance. Hungarian clary sage introduces an earthier, balsamic herbaceousness, balancing the fruity and floral facets with a subtle bitterness. Beneath this vibrant opening, hints of ripe plum, apricot, and peach weave a soft, succulent fruitiness, gently rounding the brightness with velvety sweetness.

As the perfume settles into its heart, the green resinous power of Iranian galbanum absolute commands attention—its sharp, bitter freshness evoking crushed leaves and forest undergrowth, giving the fragrance a deeply natural, almost wild quality. Egyptian jasmine absolute emerges with creamy, sensual petals that are both intoxicating and radiant, while the rich, tropical ylang-ylang from Nossi-Be enchants with its exotic, sweet, and slightly spicy floral aroma. Portuguese tuberose absolute adds a lush, narcotic floral depth, balancing the bouquet with its creamy opulence. Bulgarian rose otto, the “queen of flowers,” imparts a velvety, deeply floral warmth with subtle hints of honey and spice, creating a romantic heart.

The middle’s green-floral complexity is enriched by Bourbon geranium oil, whose minty-rose freshness brightens the accord, while the Veronese iris concrete and Florentine orris butter add powdery, soft, and earthy elegance—a hallmark of refined chypre perfumes. Parma violet concrete brings a gentle, sweet floral touch reminiscent of vintage powders, and ionone contributes a violet-like woody nuance with subtle balsamic undertones. Warm spices enter subtly through Jamaican nutmeg and Zanzibar clove, their aromatic, slightly sweet and peppery warmth rounding the heart with sophistication. Isoeugenol, a synthetic compound similar to eugenol, enhances the clove’s spicy floral note while lending a creamy softness that smooths transitions within the heart.

In the base, the fragrance deepens into a rich tapestry of resins, woods, and musks. Sudanese myrrh introduces a warm, balsamic, slightly medicinal richness that speaks of ancient incense rituals, while Yemeni opoponax and Maltese labdanum contribute sweet, resinous, and leathery facets, adding depth and tenacity. Peru balsam and South American tolu balsam round out this resinous foundation with their warm, vanilla-like sweetness. Mexican vanilla absolute and vanillin infuse a creamy sweetness that softens and sweetens, harmonizing beautifully with the warm, slightly spicy, almond-like aroma of Venezuelan tonka bean and the hay-like sweetness of coumarin.

Siam benzoin resin adds a balsamic vanilla warmth with a hint of smokiness, blending seamlessly into a smooth leather accord that evokes worn, supple leather with subtle smoky richness. The woods anchor the composition with Atlas cedar’s dry, slightly spicy, and resinous woodiness; Indonesian patchouli’s earthy, rich, and slightly sweet depth; and Java vetiver’s smoky, rooty earthiness that lingers with sophistication. Tyrolean oakmoss absolute is pivotal, offering the classic chypre earthy, mossy, and forest-floor aroma, while Florentine orris adds a final powdery, velvety smoothness. Mysore sandalwood provides a creamy, soft, and warm woody note, deepening the base further.

Animalic accents imbue the fragrance with sensuality and depth: ambergris and ambrein add marine and warm balsamic nuances; Indian musk ambrette and Tibetan musk lend a powdery, slightly sweet muskiness; Abyssinian civet and Canadian castoreum introduce subtle leathery, animalic warmth that enhances the leather accord without overpowering it.

Together, these carefully chosen natural and synthetic ingredients compose Kypre as a velvety, complex chypre that evokes the mystery and elegance of an ancient forest after rain—vibrant, rich, and utterly sophisticated, inviting you into its layered depths with every inhalation.

 

Bottles:

Kypre Grand Presentation:

This rare presentation bottle by Lancôme is crafted from colorless pressed-molded glass and stands out for its unusual shape, designed to resemble a modernist cigarette lighter—an object both fashionable and functional in the 1930s. Its compact form gives it a sleek, architectural quality, which was in keeping with the streamlined aesthetic of the Art Deco period.

One face of the bottle is adorned with a molded motif featuring a stylized Tahitian figurine framed by a delicate scattering of small blossoms. This exotic imagery, which evokes notions of travel and paradise, reflects the fascination with the South Pacific that was popular in French decorative arts of the interwar years.

The bottle is topped with a matching oval stopper, also made of glass and molded with a floral pattern that echoes the detailing on the body. The fragrance name, Kypre, is titled directly on the bottle. As with many of Lancôme’s early artistic designs, the piece was created by Georges Delhomme (1904–1989), the house’s chief artistic director and a close collaborator of Armand Petitjean, the founder of Lancôme.

Measuring approximately 7.5 cm (2.95 inches) in height, the “Kypre” bottle is now considered extremely rare and is prized by collectors for both its artistic quality and its representation of Lancôme’s elegant early packaging style.

Kypre "Eve" Presentation:

The Kypre bottle by Lancôme is a refined and intricately detailed example of early French perfume presentation, introduced in 1935, the founding year of the house. Produced by Verreries de Bresle, the flacon is made from colorless frosted glass, shaped into a rectangular form softened by elegant contours and a surface adorned with finely molded and engraved decoration. Each side reveals a unique motif in low relief, a testament to Lancôme’s early commitment to blending artistic storytelling with expert glasswork.

The front of the bottle features its most captivating detail—a stylized kneeling female figure, representing Eve, rendered with gentle curves and fluid lines that evoke introspection and grace. Her pose conveys a sense of quiet beauty and contemplation, possibly symbolizing purity or reverence. This central image is framed by the decoration on the other three faces, where blooming jasmine flowers unfurl with naturalistic delicacy. These blossoms not only add an ornamental richness to the design but also echo the olfactory language of perfumery—jasmine being a classical symbol of sensuality and timeless allure.

Crowning the bottle is an elongated, frosted and engraved glass stopper, reinforcing quality to the overall form. A simple rectangular paper label identifies the fragrance name, Kypre, subtly affixed so as not to obscure the finely worked glass beneath. The name itself hints at a connection to the chypre fragrance family, while asserting a unique Lancôme identity.

Measuring 8.5 cm tall (approximately 3.34 inches), the bottle is intimate in scale yet visually rich, offering a quiet luxury that feels both decorative and symbolic. Used exclusively for the Kypre fragrance, this flacon is considered rare today, highly prized by collectors for its exclusivity and its embodiment of Lancôme’s early vision—where perfume presentation was treated not merely as packaging, but as a form of sculptural art designed to honor the beauty of the scent within.

 

Etoile Flacon:

Kypre was presented in the elegant Flacon Étoile, a creation by Lancôme Parfumeur in collaboration with designer Jean Sala, issued in a limited edition in 1942. This bottle exemplifies Lancôme’s dedication to artistry and fine craftsmanship. Its body, formed from molded blown glass, is paired with a pressed molded glass stopper. The clear glass is finely detailed, with the underside marked in relief with “LANCÔME France,” serving as a discreet yet unmistakable mark of authenticity.

The name Étoile, meaning “star” in French, reflects the bottle’s distinctive scalloped silhouette with eight pronounced points. This star-like form captures and refracts light, producing a subtle interplay of brilliance and shadow across its faceted surfaces. The matching stopper repeats the eight-point scalloped design exactly, creating a seamless unity between bottle and closure, as though the two were conceived as a single, harmonious form. The result is a refined and balanced presentation, where every detail is meticulously aligned to enhance its beauty.

Equally exquisite, the original case—designed by Georges Delhomme—drew inspiration from seventeenth-century Florentine bookbinding. Covered in richly printed polychrome paper imitating antique mosaic bindings and adorned with a delicate Cupid motif, the presentation box elevated the experience of unveiling the perfume into a ritual of romance and luxury. Measuring 12.5 cm in height, with its case sized at 4.5 × 17 × 12.8 cm, the Flacon Étoile conveyed both substance and elegance. Used for several Lancôme perfumes, it remains a testament to the brand’s fusion of function, beauty, and timeless sophistication.

Flacon Veloutes:

Kypre was presented in the Flacon Veloutes, part of Lancôme’s 1942 Édition Grand-Luxe, an exquisite example of mid-20th-century French perfumery design that masterfully combined elegance with artistry. Designed by Jean Sala, the flacon is crafted from pressed, frosted colorless glass, molded into a sleek rectangular form with a distinctly cubic silhouette. Its body is adorned on two opposing faces with an intricate relief of four graceful spirals, or volutes, adding a dynamic yet refined decorative element. This motif is echoed in the flat disc-shaped stopper, which bears the same swirling design, creating a harmonious unity between bottle and closure. The flacon sports a gold pampille label, a delicate hanging accent that underscores its prestige. 

The presentation was further elevated by a case designed by Hadrien Leduc, covered in richly printed polychrome paper illustrated with tropical flowers and hummingbirds, and set upon a base of ivory-colored galalith (or Pollopas plastic), a detail that enhances its sophistication. Standing 12.5 cm tall, the Flacon Veloutes was used for several Lancôme perfumes of the early 1940s—including Bocages, Flèches, Cuir, Tropiques, Conquête, Tendres Nuits, Peut-Être, Kypre, and Marrakech—reflecting the brand’s dedication to pairing exceptional fragrance compositions with packaging of equal refinement and beauty.

Borne Carrée (Jasmine) Standard Bottle:

Lancôme’s Kypre was presented in the house’s very first standard perfume bottle, the Borne Carrée—now commonly known as the Flacon Jasmin—a refined design introduced at the brand’s launch in 1934. Created by Georges Delhomme, Lancôme’s first artistic director, this flacon exemplifies timeless elegance with its cut and polished colorless crystal, square flat body softened by gentle curves and rounded edges, and a clear glass stopper intricately molded with jasmine blossoms—a symbol of beauty and refinement. Often mistaken for Lalique’s work, these stoppers were Delhomme’s original creation, produced mainly by Verreries Le Bresle. The understated yet luxurious Flacon Jasmin became Lancôme’s signature bottle from the 1930s through the 1960s, housing fragrances like Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Magie. Available in multiple sizes and two main shapes—a standard square and a rarer tall, narrow form—it set the foundation for later iconic bottles such as the Pagode and the Flacon Classique, reflecting Lancôme’s enduring commitment to elegant, harmonious design.

The flacon was available in several sizes—2 oz (4"), 1 oz (3.5"), 0.5 oz (3"), and 0.25 oz (2.75")—to accommodate different price points and gifting occasions, and it appeared in two main forms: the familiar standard square version and a rarer tall, narrow variant. 

"Pagode" Standard Bottle:

Kypre was also presented in Lancôme’s Pagode flacon, one of the house’s most elegant and enduring designs, used for several of its prestige fragrances, including Magie. Crafted from clear, colorless glass, the Pagode flacon is distinguished by its gently curved silhouette, which subtly softens the rectangular outline and imparts a refined, tactile quality. This curvature, combined with harmonious proportions and softened edges, conveys an understated luxury that contrasts with the stark, angular lines of modernist bottle design. Topped with a concave, rectangular glass stopper that mirrors the gentle curve of the body, the bottle achieves a sleek balance between fluidity and symmetry. Reserved for parfum concentrations, the Pagode flacon was a vessel for Lancôme’s most concentrated and prestigious offerings, transforming the act of fragrance presentation into an art form in its own right.

Bouchon Vannerie Standard Bottle:

Kypre was also presented in Lancôme’s Bouchon Vannerie standard flacon, a 1940s design that blends refined elegance with a touch of artisanal charm. Its most distinctive feature is the frosted glass stopper, molded in relief with an intricate basketweave pattern that captures the look and feel of handwoven wicker. This tactile detail not only provided visual interest but also evoked the traditions of French craftsmanship, where artistry lies as much in texture as in form. The clear glass body offered a simple, graceful counterpoint to the ornate stopper, allowing the golden hue of the perfume to enhance the overall presentation. Discreetly embossed “Lancôme France” on the base, the flacon carried an air of authenticity and understated prestige, marking it as the work of one of France’s most celebrated perfume houses.

Nativite Presentation:

Kypre was also presented in Lancôme’s Nativité collection (1942–1948), a holiday offering that combined artistry, symbolism, and masterful craftsmanship. At its heart was the L’Ange Souffleur flacon, designed by Georges Delhomme and crafted by Verrières de la Bresle, famed for their museum-quality glasswork. This rectangular block of colorless frosted glass, about 4 inches tall, featured a gilded relief of an angel blowing air, framed by radiant sun rays—a motif evoking breath, spirit, and the Nativity. The elegant glass stopper, layered over a smaller inner stopper, added architectural grace. Packaged in a silver foil–covered presentation box by Maurice Perot, richly embossed and decorated with lithographed Nativity scenes, the fragrance became a true holiday treasure. 

Other Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

During World War II, the elegant bottles and refined fragrances of Lancôme disappeared from American stores, leaving a notable void. The importation of some of the house’s most beloved perfumes—such as Tropiques, Tendres Nuit, Flèches, Cuir, Conquête, Bocages, Peut-Être, and Kypre—was halted throughout the war years. For American women, who had grown accustomed to the luxurious allure of Lancôme’s scents, this absence was more than just missing a favorite fragrance; it represented a loss of beauty, romance, and refinement during a period marked by uncertainty and austerity.

It was not until 1946, just after the war’s end, that these cherished perfumes returned to American soil. A newspaper article from that year highlighted the importance of this moment, announcing the arrival of Madame Elsi Cramer, Lancôme’s representative and the first envoy of the French perfume industry to America since the conflict began. She brought not only the treasured fragrances but also a distinctive philosophy of perfume appreciation. Madame Cramer noted that American women often focused on the longevity of a scent, prioritizing how long it would last over the artistry behind the perfume’s floral accords, base notes, and elegant packaging. Instead, she advocated for a more refined ritual—carrying a small vial of one’s preferred perfume and delicately reapplying it during the evening to maintain a fresh, just-applied effect that enhanced grace and sophistication.

The perfumes that Madame Cramer introduced—Tropiques, Flèches, Cuir, Kypre, Conquête, Qui Sait (pronounced “key-say,” meaning “Who Knows?”), and Bocages—were more than mere reissues. Their return was a powerful symbol. These scents had been carefully safeguarded during the German occupation of France, their formulas protected through years of hardship and scarcity. The challenges of wartime, including limited access to precious raw materials, only heightened the respect and reverence surrounding these fragrances. Madame Cramer emphasized that each bottle represented not just exquisite craftsmanship but also the resilience and endurance of a nation that had endured immense suffering. Lancôme’s perfumes had transcended luxury status to become emblems of cultural perseverance, beauty preserved amid adversity.

For American women, the revival of these French perfumes was an invitation to look beyond the surface fragrance—to embrace the story behind each finely crafted flacon and the rich history it carried. These perfumes were not merely “more sweet-smelling stuff,” as Madame Cramer put it, but rather the restoration of treasured artistry, secret formulas, and a legacy of survival. With every spritz came a connection to a past marked by courage, dedication, and the enduring spirit of French perfumery finally reborn on American shores.

Coty vs. Lancome:

In 1951, a case involved a dispute between Coty Inc. and Lancôme SA over the use of the name “Kypre” for perfumes and cosmetics. Coty, the opposing party, argued that Lancôme’s “Kypre” was too similar to the word “Chypre,” which Coty had already been using to describe its perfumes.

“Chypre” is both a geographic term (the French word for the island of Cyprus) and a general, descriptive word used in perfumery to describe a certain type of fragrance. Coty said that because “Chypre” is descriptive and connected to the island, it should be available for all perfume makers to use. Coty claimed that “Kypre” was just a misspelled or altered version of “Chypre,” and that the two names were confusingly similar, likely to cause confusion among customers.

The patent office’s examiner originally dismissed Coty’s opposition, saying Coty had not proven that it had priority over the name or that it would be harmed if Lancôme’s “Kypre” was registered. The examiner also focused mainly on the issue of “confusion in trade” and didn’t consider other reasons.

However, on appeal, the decision was reversed. The appeal judge agreed with Coty that “Chypre” is a geographic and descriptive term and that others have the right to use it for perfumes. But “Kypre” is a different spelling and may be pronounced similarly, especially since people unfamiliar with French might pronounce “Chypre” with a hard “K” sound. Because the words look and sound very similar, it’s likely that consumers could get confused about the origin of the perfumes.

The court concluded that “Kypre” was too close to “Chypre” and therefore should not be registered as a trademark by Lancôme. This decision protects the use of the descriptive term “Chypre” for all perfume makers and prevents one company from claiming exclusive rights to a name so closely linked to a generic fragrance category.

The term kypre, a verb derived from Swedish kypra meaning “to cut or prune wine,” carries connotations linked to traditional winemaking practices—specifically, treating wine in the manner typical of a Cypriot, or someone from Cyprus. This word also shares roots with related terms in German (küfern, meaning to make barrels) and Norwegian dialect (kipra), reflecting craftsmanship associated with wine preparation and storage. Though now rarely used, the term evokes images of careful, artisanal attention to wine, emphasizing patience and refinement.

This concept aligns beautifully with Lancôme’s Kypre perfume and the vision of its creator, Armand Petitjean. Petitjean’s analogy, “Kypre should be treated like a Burgundy; it needs to age in the bottle, like the wine,” draws directly on this heritage of winemaking, suggesting that the fragrance’s true character deepens and matures over time. Just as fine Burgundy wine develops complexity and richness through aging, Kypre perfume reveals its velvety, layered nature only after a period of maturation. Petitjean also noted the perfume’s seasonal versatility—favoring cooler climates and festivities in Europe, yet finding broader appeal year-round in warmer regions like the East and South America—mirroring how wine’s reception varies with context and taste. In this way, the etymology and tradition behind kypre enhance the poetic narrative of the fragrance, linking it to a legacy of craftsmanship, aging, and refined sensory experience.

Discontinuation:

Kypre by Lancôme, a sophisticated and mossy chypre fragrance, eventually disappeared from the brand’s offerings, though the exact date of its discontinuation remains uncertain. Archival evidence shows that it was still available for purchase as late as 1960, making it one of Lancôme’s enduring pre-war creations to survive well into the postwar era. Its longevity in the market speaks to both the quality of its composition and the loyalty it inspired among those who wore it.

By the time it was still being sold in 1960, Kypre belonged to an older tradition of perfumery—rooted in the classical chypre structure of bright citrus, floral heart, and mossy-woody base—yet it carried the elegance and refinement that defined Lancôme’s pre- and immediate postwar work. Its continued availability hinted that it had not merely been a fleeting fashion, but a fragrance with a devoted following who appreciated its balance of freshness, warmth, and depth.

Its disappearance, when it finally came, left a gap in Lancôme’s perfume portfolio, particularly for those who valued the chypre family in its most classic, luxurious form. Today, surviving bottles of Kypre—whether in their original artful packaging or showing the patina of decades—are coveted not only for their scent but also as tangible remnants of Lancôme’s golden age in perfumery. They stand as fragrant reminders of a time when the house produced perfumes that were as much about heritage and artistry as they were about the pleasure of wearing them.