Borne Carree - Jasmine Stopper Bottles (1934)

Lancôme’s earliest parfums were presented in the house’s very first standard perfume bottle, the Borne Carrée—now more commonly referred to as the Flacon Jasmin. Introduced at the brand’s debut in 1934, this refined design was created by Georges Delhomme, Lancôme’s first artistic director, whose vision established the brand’s distinctive visual identity. The bottle was crafted from cut and polished colorless crystal, its square, flat body softened by gentle curves and rounded edges. The crowning detail was a clear glass stopper molded with delicate jasmine blossoms—an emblem of grace, beauty, and refinement. This floral motif not only referenced one of perfumery’s most prized ingredients but also symbolized Lancôme’s dedication to understated luxury.

Although the Flacon Jasmin is often mistaken for a creation by René Lalique, the design was entirely Delhomme’s own. The stoppers were primarily produced by Verreries Le Bresle, whose fine glasswork complemented the precision of the bottle’s form. The overall effect was both architectural and soft, balancing modern lines with romantic detailing. This design remained in production from the 1930s through the 1960s, becoming Lancôme’s signature presentation for many of its early fragrances, including Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Magie. Its timeless silhouette served as the foundation for later iconic Lancôme bottles such as the Pagode and the Flacon Classique, both of which continued the house’s tradition of elegant, harmonious proportions.

The Flacon Jasmin was offered in several sizes to suit a range of price points and gifting occasions: 2 oz (4"), 1 oz (3.5"), 0.5 oz (3"), and 0.25 oz (2.75"). It appeared in two main forms: the familiar standard square version and a rarer tall, narrow variant prized by collectors today. This versatile bottle housed a remarkable selection of Lancôme’s early perfumes, including Flèches, Cuir, Peut-Être (originally Qui Sait?), Magie, Trésor (also called Seul Trésor), Kypre, Marrakech, Conquête, Tendres Nuits, Bocages, La Vallée Bleue, Chèvrefeuille, and Gardenia. In every iteration, the Flacon Jasmin stood as a perfect embodiment of the house’s artistry—restrained yet sumptuous, functional yet unmistakably luxurious.

The "flacon tige" was one of Lancôme’s most charming and practical perfume presentations, designed specifically for convenience and precision in applying parfum. Slender and elongated in form, this tall, narrow bottle was fitted with a stopper containing an exceptionally long glass dauber—known in French as a touche oreilles—that reached to the very bottom of the vessel. The dauber allowed the wearer to apply the fragrance directly to the skin, particularly behind the ears or at pulse points, without the waste or evaporation associated with pouring or splashing.

Holding just one-third of an ounce of parfum, the flacon tige was intended for the pure, most concentrated form of fragrance. Its capacity reflected both the precious nature of the contents and the bottle’s role as a portable luxury. Despite its minimal volume, the tall silhouette lent the bottle a sense of refinement, elongating its profile so that it appeared elegant rather than diminutive. The design also made it easy to slip into a handbag or vanity case, ensuring the perfume could be carried discreetly and applied as needed throughout the day.

Made of clear glass to display the rich hue of the parfum within, the flacon tige could be found as part of individual perfume sales, part of a tester set at the Lancome beauty counter or as a companion piece in boxed gift sets. Its simplicity and utility, combined with the artistry of its proportions, made it an enduring favorite for those who valued both beauty and practicality in their fragrance bottles. For collectors today, surviving examples provide a fascinating glimpse into mid-20th-century perfume culture, when every detail of presentation—from the length of a dauber to the curve of a bottle—was carefully considered to enhance the ritual of wearing scent.

Presentations:

In the photo below, you can see several presentation boxes that were used for the Jasmine Stoppered Bottles.

Série des Emblèmes Presentation:

The Série des Emblèmes, introduced by Lancôme and featured in the 1945 catalog, was an opulent presentation line reserved for the house’s largest perfume formats. Each fragrance was presented in an elongated, rectangular case, meticulously wrapped in white morocco-style paper with the look and feel of fine leather, and enriched with gold-tooled, embossed detailing. At the center of the lid, a repoussé and gilded emblem served as a unique visual signature for the perfume inside—each emblem individually designed to capture the fragrance’s theme and spirit, ensuring no two were alike. Available in lavish sizes of 100 grams (3.5 oz), 250 grams (8 oz), 500 grams (16 oz), and an extraordinary 1,000 grams (32 oz), the Série des Emblèmes epitomized Lancôme’s postwar commitment to beauty, artistry, and luxury on a grand scale.

Goldsmith's Box Presentation:

Starting as early as 1947, the “goldsmith’s lacunar case” was an ornate style of perfume presentation that gave the impression of fine metalwork while being made from high-quality, decorated cardboard. The term lacunar comes from the Latin lacunar—a panelled or coffered ceiling—and in this context refers to a design that mimics recessed, framed, or compartment-like decorative panels. On these perfume cases, the effect was achieved through embossed or pressed patterns that created a structured, jewel-box-like surface.

For Lancôme, this style was produced in two main versions: one with metallic gold foil-and-pink paper covering and another with metallic gold foil-and-white. Both were adorned with a charming decorative scheme of arrows, roses, irises, and hearts—motifs that carried romantic and symbolic associations, often tied to the identity of the perfume inside. The combination of gilded surfaces and intricate patterning gave the box the refined appearance of a goldsmith’s handiwork, elevating even a cardboard container into a luxury object.

New Look:

In 1955, Lancôme introduced a unified redesign for all its standard perfume packaging, retiring earlier styles such as the Emblème and Lacunar presentations. The new French-made boxes featured a smooth white surface accented with embossed gold detailing, creating a crisp, modern elegance. A distinctive gold panel with curved corner motifs framed the sides and top, while the front was centered with the Lancôme rose insignia encircled by a gleaming gold band. This streamlined yet luxurious style was used for perfumes including Magie, Seul Trésor, Tropiques, and Qui-Sait ?, marking a refined mid-century evolution in the brand’s visual identity.

Fate of the Flacon:

The Borne Carrée—later more widely known as the Flacon Jasmin—was a mainstay of Lancôme’s perfume presentations from 1934 until 1962. This earlier design embodied the brand’s romantic, floral identity, with its square, flat body softened by rounded contours and crowned by a delicate intaglio stopper molded with a blooming jasmine flower. The floral motif, a hallmark of Lancôme’s early style, lent the bottle a distinctly feminine and decorative charm.

In 1963, Lancôme introduced the Flacon Classique as a modernized successor to the Flacon Jasmin. While it preserved the recognizable square profile and gentle curvature of its predecessor, the ornamentation was pared back in favor of clean lines and refined simplicity. The most significant change was the stopper—now a crisp, square-cut crystal with a subtle trapezoidal suggestion, replacing the sculpted jasmine bloom. This geometric, minimalist design reflected mid-century modern influences, emphasizing clarity of form and architectural symmetry. The result was an elegant, contemporary bottle that aligned with the sophisticated, streamlined aesthetic of the 1960s.