Wednesday, August 6, 2025

Serie des Emblèmes Presentation (1945)

The Série des Emblèmes from Lancôme, as described in the 1945 catalog, was a strikingly luxurious presentation line dedicated to the larger formats of their perfumes. These were not just oversized bottles; they were conceived as objets d’art—each one a bold visual statement, crafted to emphasize the opulence and individuality of each fragrance.

The bottle itself was a bespoke Lancôme creation, made of cut and polished glass in an elegant rectangular form, this is known as the "Borne Carrée" (square terminal) stoppered bottle, colloquially known as the "jasmine" stoppered bottle. The flanks of the bottle were gently curved, softening the geometric shape and adding a subtle sense of movement. The stopper echoed the bottle’s refinement: it was also cut glass, engraved with delicate jasmine flowers, and edged in an “éclaté” or burst-cut pattern that added an ornamental, crystalline brilliance. Around the neck was a fine gold braid—referred to as a "col caravaté"—which enhanced the sense of ceremonial beauty. A small engraved label, gilded in gold, discreetly identified the perfume.

Each fragrance in the series was housed in a special case designed with as much attention as the bottle itself. The box was long and rectangular, wrapped in a white morocco-style paper (resembling fine leather), and decorated with gold-tooled embossed detailing. At the heart of each case was a repoussé and gilded emblem—an embossed, gilded design that served as a symbolic representation of the perfume it contained. These emblems were not interchangeable; each one was created specifically to visually embody the essence and inspiration behind its corresponding scent.



Here are the emblems assigned to each perfume:

  • Ref. 50 – Conquête: Symbolized by a rose, evoking romance and triumph.
  • Ref. 51 – Kypre: A siren on the waves, referencing mythical allure and the classic chypre accord.
  • Ref. 52 – Tropiques: Illustrated by the “pearl necklace” of Rio, capturing the exoticism and vibrancy of tropical locales.
  • Ref. 53 – Tendres Nuits: Marked by stars and a cloud, suggesting softness, dreams, and nocturnal tenderness.
  • Ref. 54 – Bocages: A fluttering bird, symbolizing pastoral beauty and lightness.
  • Ref. 55 – Marrakech: A woman at a moucharaby (a traditional Middle Eastern lattice window), evoking mystery, veiled beauty, and the Orient.
  • Ref. 56 – Gardénia: The Cape jasmine flower, representing creamy, sultry florals.
  • Ref. 57 – Peut-être: Two interlocking hearts, symbolizing love and possibility.
  • Ref. 58 – Flèches: Two crossed arrows, a timeless emblem of Cupid and attraction.
  • Ref. 59 – Chèvrefeuille: A stylized honeysuckle flower, sweet and airy.
  • Ref. 60 – Cuir: Gazelles and carnations, evoking elegance, animalic warmth, and floral spiciness.
  • Ref. 61 – Magie: The mythical winged horse Pegasus, a symbol of magic, fantasy, and poetic inspiration.
  • Ref. 62 – Trésor: Jewels, reflecting opulence and preciousness.
  • Ref. 63 – La Vallée Bleue: A cascading waterfall nestled in a valley, representing freshness and serenity.
  • Ref. 64 – Plaisir: A whimsical harlequin and a feather, suggesting joy, flirtation, and theatricality.


To match the grandeur of these designs, Lancôme offered the Série des Emblèmes in four generous sizes:

  • 100 grams (3.5 oz) – Ref. 0014
  • 250 grams (8 oz) – Ref. 0015
  • 500 grams (16 oz) – Ref. 0016
  • 1,000 grams (32 oz) – Ref. 0017


This collection represents one of the most distinctive and imaginative packaging series in Lancôme’s history, highlighting their post-war embrace of artisanal craftsmanship, symbolic design, and the theatrical possibilities of perfume presentation. Each perfume became not just a scent, but a story, expressed visually and materially through emblem, bottle, and box.


 


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